Pi3 USB failure[solved]

[DeRock89]

I believe you are correct sir.... I didn't think about it as simplistic as your implying. I wasn't thinking it terms of wire order and instead color and pad numbers.

The big question now is, did I break something by making this mistake and is the micro USB wiring correct? It's obvious now the regular USB plug is wrong now, but I can't look at the actual order inside the micro USB male plug. I simply stripped a micro USB wire down and connected the corisponding colors in relation to a diagram showing colors I found.

i doubt that you've damaged anything (still could be posible)

but as a general rule of thumb....

Black (GND) is always next to Green (D+),
Green (D+) is always next White (D-),
White (D-) is always next to Red (VCC 5V)

Black
Green
White
Red

i'm not sure what the colour of the wires were on the micro usb, but if they were Blk,Grn,Wht,Red
then they should go in the same order (i've never come across them being different to this)


this should be the same both ends....
it also helps to twist the Green & White together, to avoid any issues with noise

.

You where correct! The data wires needed to be swapped. Now USB works! Thank you!

Although now I have isolated a new issue. I think this is perfect for you considering your experience with these screens. I did the sound circuit like you specified with these Kedei screens. remember the clicking I discussed? I believe it has to do with audio. Sound works at low volume but as I turn up the volume, it doesn't make the clicking but the screen starts cycling on and off over and over.

I don't know if it's relevant or not but I don't have the battery installed. I wanted to do that last because I don't have a power switch in yet. I'm just plugging it directly in with a canakit 5V 2.5a power supply.

It could possibly be the ground wire... I was a little confused trying to figure out your diagram without a switched headphone jack and two speakers. I have two ground wires going from the ground pin on the pot to the ground on the amp and to the ground place on the audio jack on the Kedei screen.

[VeteranGamer]

I believe you are correct sir.... I didn't think about it as simplistic as your implying. I wasn't thinking it terms of wire order and instead color and pad numbers.

The big question now is, did I break something by making this mistake and is the micro USB wiring correct? It's obvious now the regular USB plug is wrong now, but I can't look at the actual order inside the micro USB male plug. I simply stripped a micro USB wire down and connected the corisponding colors in relation to a diagram showing colors I found.

i doubt that you've damaged anything (still could be posible)

but as a general rule of thumb....

Black (GND) is always next to Green (D+),
Green (D+) is always next White (D-),
White (D-) is always next to Red (VCC 5V)

Black
Green
White
Red

i'm not sure what the colour of the wires were on the micro usb, but if they were Blk,Grn,Wht,Red
then they should go in the same order (i've never come across them being different to this)


this should be the same both ends....
it also helps to twist the Green & White together, to avoid any issues with noise

.

You where correct! The data wires needed to be swapped. Now USB works! Thank you!

Although now I have isolated a new issue. I think this is perfect for you considering your experience with these screens. I did the sound circuit like you specified with these Kedei screens. remember the clicking I discussed? I believe it has to do with audio. Sound works at low volume but as I turn up the volume, it doesn't make the clicking but the screen starts cycling on and off over and over.

I don't know if it's relevant or not but I don't have the battery installed. I wanted to do that last because I don't have a power switch in yet. I'm just plugging it directly in with a canakit 5V 2.5a power supply.

Can you show me have you have it wired up...

How is the ground (gnd) all hooked up....

.

[DeRock89]

[/quote]

Can you show me have you have it wired up...

How is the ground (gnd) all hooked up....

.
[/quote]

Here you go. Curious side question if you know the answer. Why do people sometime put resisters in different locations in their audio circuits, and what's the deal with PWM audio? I saw the PCBs for sale on here for PWM audio.



The green and blue wires go through the FPC cable to the other half and connect directly to the power rail PCB. I just loosely wired it all in to test everything first before installing everything. I learned my lesson with that aspect I of audio on my first build...

[DeRock89]

i doubt that you've damaged anything (still could be posible)

but as a general rule of thumb....

Black (GND) is always next to Green (D+),
Green (D+) is always next White (D-),
White (D-) is always next to Red (VCC 5V)

Black
Green
White
Red

i'm not sure what the colour of the wires were on the micro usb, but if they were Blk,Grn,Wht,Red
then they should go in the same order (i've never come across them being different to this)


this should be the same both ends....
it also helps to twist the Green & White together, to avoid any issues with noise

.

You where correct! The data wires needed to be swapped. Now USB works! Thank you!

Although now I have isolated a new issue. I think this is perfect for you considering your experience with these screens. I did the sound circuit like you specified with these Kedei screens. remember the clicking I discussed? I believe it has to do with audio. Sound works at low volume but as I turn up the volume, it doesn't make the clicking but the screen starts cycling on and off over and over.

I don't know if it's relevant or not but I don't have the battery installed. I wanted to do that last because I don't have a power switch in yet. I'm just plugging it directly in with a canakit 5V 2.5a power supply.

Can you show me have you have it wired up...

How is the ground (gnd) all hooked up....

.

[/quote]

Can you show me have you have it wired up...

How is the ground (gnd) all hooked up....

.
[/quote]

Here you go. Curious side question if you know the answer. Why do people sometime put resisters in different locations in their audio circuits, and what's the deal with PWM audio? I saw the PCBs for sale on here for PWM audio.



The green and blue wires go through the FPC cable to the other half and connect directly to the power rail PCB. I just loosely wired it all in to test everything first before installing everything. I learned my lesson with that aspect I of audio on my first build...

[VeteranGamer]

Here you go. Curious side question if you know the answer. Why do people sometime put resisters in different locations in their audio circuits, and what's the deal with PWM audio? I saw the PCBs for sale on here for PWM audio.



The green and blue wires go through the FPC cable to the other half and connect directly to the power rail PCB. I just loosely wired it all in to test everything first before installing everything. I learned my lesson with that aspect I of audio on my first build...

PWM audio from my own experience isnt that great.....
its fine if other solutions arent available, but dont produce decent quality....

as for resistors...
i added a 51ohm resistor (its what i had lying around) to my HDMI build, between the headphone socket and speaker....
without it the volume was really loud and some humming/buzzing was also present, after adding the resistor the humming/buzzing vitually dissappeared and the volume (max) was also reduce (to a level i was happy with)


i'm not sure why yous is cutting out.....

this is how i wired mine, with the amp coming before the volume wheel and headphone socket




you try switching places with the volume wheel and amp......

also you can even try to scrap the amp and see if you can get away without it as your speakers look like basic tablet speakers that wouldnt need much for them to work (its work a try, plus its one less thing to power)


.

[DeRock89]

Here you go. Curious side question if you know the answer. Why do people sometime put resisters in different locations in their audio circuits, and what's the deal with PWM audio? I saw the PCBs for sale on here for PWM audio.



The green and blue wires go through the FPC cable to the other half and connect directly to the power rail PCB. I just loosely wired it all in to test everything first before installing everything. I learned my lesson with that aspect I of audio on my first build...

PWM audio from my own experience isnt that great.....
its fine if other solutions arent available, but dont produce decent quality....

as for resistors...
i added a 51ohm resistor (its what i had lying around) to my HDMI build, between the headphone socket and speaker....
without it the volume was really loud and some humming/buzzing was also present, after adding the resistor the humming/buzzing vitually dissappeared and the volume (max) was also reduce (to a level i was happy with)


i'm not sure why yous is cutting out.....

this is how i wired mine, with the amp coming before the volume wheel and headphone socket




you try switching places with the volume wheel and amp......

also you can even try to scrap the amp and see if you can get away without it as your speakers look like basic tablet speakers that wouldnt need much for them to work (its work a try, plus its one less thing to power)


.

What do you mean by switching the place of the volume wheel and amp? It would amplify the audio before hitting the pot?
I tried without the amp, and it's not that loud at all. The speakers are 1W each.

I've noticed that with the volume turned alll the way down, I can still barely hear audio out of the speakers, turn it up and screen starts flickering on and off.

Are you sure my ground wires are right? I have two wires coming out of the ground on the pot, one goes to the top pad on the audio plug on the screen and the other goes to the hole between L and R IN on the amp. Im just really wondering about it because I know that when the pot is all the way down, the inputs on the pot are grounded, then as the pot is turned up, the inputs are no longer grounded through the pot alone and then the amp and screen are solely connected to each other's grounds from the Audio jack to ground hole. I don't know how it would mess it up, I have no idea, it just seems logical to me because it's the only other variable changing when the pot is turned up other then the amplification of the sound signal itself.

I just now noticed from your diagram that your pot is after the amp... that means I would splice the ground from the pot in between the - wires between the amp and speaker outputs? That would make like 5 points of universal contact like that with ground right? I'm confused; how does it change the functionality of the overall circuit or what's the logic behind a pot being before versus after the amp?

[DeRock89]

Here you go. Curious side question if you know the answer. Why do people sometime put resisters in different locations in their audio circuits, and what's the deal with PWM audio? I saw the PCBs for sale on here for PWM audio.



The green and blue wires go through the FPC cable to the other half and connect directly to the power rail PCB. I just loosely wired it all in to test everything first before installing everything. I learned my lesson with that aspect I of audio on my first build...

PWM audio from my own experience isnt that great.....
its fine if other solutions arent available, but dont produce decent quality....

as for resistors...
i added a 51ohm resistor (its what i had lying around) to my HDMI build, between the headphone socket and speaker....
without it the volume was really loud and some humming/buzzing was also present, after adding the resistor the humming/buzzing vitually dissappeared and the volume (max) was also reduce (to a level i was happy with)


i'm not sure why yous is cutting out.....

this is how i wired mine, with the amp coming before the volume wheel and headphone socket




you try switching places with the volume wheel and amp......

also you can even try to scrap the amp and see if you can get away without it as your speakers look like basic tablet speakers that wouldnt need much for them to work (its work a try, plus its one less thing to power)


.

I wired it up with the pot after the amp as best I could based on your diagram and this way I get no sound at all... I did the best I could with the ground wires. I really didn't want to try and solder so many ground wires together so I tried to get creative with tieing them together. I figured as long as there is contenuitiy through all of them it doesn't matter.

Here is round 2...


I also tried wiring directly to the speakers without the pot and I get very low volume.

I had one of these so I figured I would rule out issues with the pot or amp. It also did the same thing and the screen started kicking on and off once the volume was turned up to a certain threshold.

Here is this test:

[DeRock89]

Here you go. Curious side question if you know the answer. Why do people sometime put resisters in different locations in their audio circuits, and what's the deal with PWM audio? I saw the PCBs for sale on here for PWM audio.



The green and blue wires go through the FPC cable to the other half and connect directly to the power rail PCB. I just loosely wired it all in to test everything first before installing everything. I learned my lesson with that aspect I of audio on my first build...

PWM audio from my own experience isnt that great.....
its fine if other solutions arent available, but dont produce decent quality....

as for resistors...
i added a 51ohm resistor (its what i had lying around) to my HDMI build, between the headphone socket and speaker....
without it the volume was really loud and some humming/buzzing was also present, after adding the resistor the humming/buzzing vitually dissappeared and the volume (max) was also reduce (to a level i was happy with)


i'm not sure why yous is cutting out.....

this is how i wired mine, with the amp coming before the volume wheel and headphone socket




you try switching places with the volume wheel and amp......

also you can even try to scrap the amp and see if you can get away without it as your speakers look like basic tablet speakers that wouldnt need much for them to work (its work a try, plus its one less thing to power)


.

What do you mean by switching the place of the volume wheel and amp? It would amplify the audio before hitting the pot?
I tried without the amp, and it's not that loud at all. The speakers are 1W each.

I've noticed that with the volume turned alll the way down, I can still barely hear audio out of the speakers, turn it up and screen starts flickering on and off.

Are you sure my ground wires are right? I have two wires coming out of the ground on the pot, one goes to the top pad on the audio plug on the screen and the other goes to the hole between L and R IN on the amp. Im just really wondering about it because I know that when the pot is all the way down, the inputs on the pot are grounded, then as the pot is turned up, the inputs are no longer grounded through the pot alone and then the amp and screen are solely connected to each other's grounds from the Audio jack to ground hole. I don't know how it would mess it up, I have no idea, it just seems logical to me because it's the only other variable changing when the pot is turned up other then the amplification of the sound signal itself.

I just now noticed from your diagram that your pot is after the amp... that means I would splice the ground from the pot in between the - wires between the amp and speaker outputs? That would make like 5 points of universal contact like that with ground right? I'm confused; how does it change the functionality of the overall circuit or what's the logic behind a pot being before versus after the amp?

I believe I SORT OF figured out the issue. Took a USB cable and made a 5v 1amp power supply to power the PAM8403 separately and wired it like I did initially. Well this worked and the screen remained on.

Two points of bad news though. First, I blew the speakers and ruined them when I turned the volume up all the way to test the sound. The second point of bad news is this opens up a whole new can of worms as far as assume the build not having enough power to power everything from the 1000c. It may be relevant but I do not have the battery installed and I'm just plugging it in with a 5v 2.5a canakit power supply...