Bummer about the screen. I removed the volume wheel during the trouble shooting process. Once the speaker worked with the resistors, I put the volume wheel back on and it works perfectly. Completed build now. It's definitely awesome and worth the trial and error. Good Luck!Lphillimore wrote:@144TECH I might ad that I am using a volume wheel (always have been) and shielded speaker wire but still get these issues
Everything wired as per Helders diagram.
Clearly there is a resistance issue somewhere so hopefully I can find it.
Unfortunately this is no longer my primary concern as my Gearbest screen died last night so now need to remove that and build it back up...
All in One PCB Support Thread
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Re: All in One PCB Support Thread
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Re: All in One PCB Support Thread
This was genius! It worked perfectly, and I even tried it with two 150 ohm resistors. Sound is perfect through the speaker now! Not even much static or hissing!Tomatoflames wrote:Solution found! Thanks @Helder.
Issue: Extremely choppy and quiet audio through speaker.
Solution: Added resistors as suggested by Helder which, instantly increased the volume and reduced the choppiness to a very playable level. No other steps were required apart from hookup as shown on Helder's wiring diagram and the config file, both of which are found on page 1 of this thread.
My setup: AIO 2.2A with 5 pin audio jack, Raspberry Pi v1.3, Adafruit Powerboost 1000C TPS61000, and 8 Ohm 1/2 Watt speakers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WW ... UTF8&psc=1
Parts Required: Two 75ohm 1/2 watt resistors, Three 1.5 inch long pieces of extra PWM or audio wire and a small piece of perf board.
Resistors from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002 ... UTF8&psc=1
To do:
Place resistors into the perf board parallel and adjacent to each other and solder the ends together on one side to make a U shape.
Solder a wire from the bottom of the U, on the side you just joined, to the Speaker - pad on the AIO.
On the other side of the perf board, solder a wire from the end of one resistor to the right side of R15.
Solder another wire from the end of the other resistor to the right side of R16.
Done
You do have extra perf board that you used for practice, right?!
For excellent soldering tips to protect your investment - http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=21465
@helder this should be on page one for these new boards. There must be some disconnect between R15 and R16.
Thanks!!!
Re: All in One PCB Support Thread
I've configured and got my AIO board running and all the controls work great in game and in menu.
However, when I go into retropie-setup or wifi, I can move around in the menus but can't exit or choose any options. Seems like it's not responding to "A" or "B" on the controller.
Any chance you know how to fix this? Does not happen when I connect a keyboard or another controller.
However, when I go into retropie-setup or wifi, I can move around in the menus but can't exit or choose any options. Seems like it's not responding to "A" or "B" on the controller.
Any chance you know how to fix this? Does not happen when I connect a keyboard or another controller.
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- Mischief
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Re: All in One PCB Support Thread
You need to plug in a keyboard especially when setting up wifiepicpwn wrote:I've configured and got my AIO board running and all the controls work great in game and in menu.
However, when I go into retropie-setup or wifi, I can move around in the menus but can't exit or choose any options. Seems like it's not responding to "A" or "B" on the controller.
Any chance you know how to fix this? Does not happen when I connect a keyboard or another controller.
Re: All in One PCB Support Thread
Is there a way to remap controller "A" or "B" to mimic the keyboard "Enter"? I've already setup the wifi, I would just like to edit basic settings while on the road without a keyboard.Mischief wrote:You need to plug in a keyboard especially when setting up wifiepicpwn wrote:I've configured and got my AIO board running and all the controls work great in game and in menu.
However, when I go into retropie-setup or wifi, I can move around in the menus but can't exit or choose any options. Seems like it's not responding to "A" or "B" on the controller.
Any chance you know how to fix this? Does not happen when I connect a keyboard or another controller.
- Mischief
- Posts: 225
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- Location: Wolverhampton, UK
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Re: All in One PCB Support Thread
I haven't had any luck mapping the keys like that so I always use a keyboard when in retropie settings, the controller works fine in retroarch config though.epicpwn wrote:Is there a way to remap controller "A" or "B" to mimic the keyboard "Enter"? I've already setup the wifi, I would just like to edit basic settings while on the road without a keyboard.Mischief wrote:You need to plug in a keyboard especially when setting up wifiepicpwn wrote:I've configured and got my AIO board running and all the controls work great in game and in menu.
However, when I go into retropie-setup or wifi, I can move around in the menus but can't exit or choose any options. Seems like it's not responding to "A" or "B" on the controller.
Any chance you know how to fix this? Does not happen when I connect a keyboard or another controller.
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Re: All in One PCB Support Thread
Same here, I haven't figured out a way to map it. Plugging in a keyboard is just best. I also connect through SSH to make changes when I connect a WiFi dongle and get it working.Mischief wrote:I haven't had any luck mapping the keys like that so I always use a keyboard when in retropie settings, the controller works fine in retroarch config though.epicpwn wrote:Is there a way to remap controller "A" or "B" to mimic the keyboard "Enter"? I've already setup the wifi, I would just like to edit basic settings while on the road without a keyboard.Mischief wrote:
You need to plug in a keyboard especially when setting up wifi
Re: All in One PCB Support Thread
Can someone help me? I tried the above to reduce cracking of the sound after shielding the speaker cables. but now I have no sound at all.Tomatoflames wrote:Solution found! Thanks @Helder.
Issue: Extremely choppy and quiet audio through speaker.
Solution: Added resistors as suggested by Helder which, instantly increased the volume and reduced the choppiness to a very playable level. No other steps were required apart from hookup as shown on Helder's wiring diagram and the config file, both of which are found on page 1 of this thread.
My setup: AIO 2.2A with 5 pin audio jack, Raspberry Pi v1.3, Adafruit Powerboost 1000C TPS61000, and 8 Ohm 1/2 Watt speakers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WW ... UTF8&psc=1
Parts Required: Two 75ohm 1/2 watt resistors, Three 1.5 inch long pieces of extra PWM or audio wire and a small piece of perf board.
Resistors from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002 ... UTF8&psc=1
To do:
Place resistors into the perf board parallel and adjacent to each other and solder the ends together on one side to make a U shape.
Solder a wire from the bottom of the U, on the side you just joined, to the Speaker - pad on the AIO.
On the other side of the perf board, solder a wire from the end of one resistor to the right side of R15.
Solder another wire from the end of the other resistor to the right side of R16.
Done
You do have extra perf board that you used for practice, right?!
For excellent soldering tips to protect your investment - http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=21465
Re: All in One PCB Support Thread
could not get audio to work at all, build several gbzs and had this exact problem before.
sound would not go past 65% without cutting out at high pitched noises and volume waaay to low. it was from grounding both left and right outputs on the pam board. could not fix the aio so i just rerouted the audio through my own pam(pic was only for test haha) and it works perfect. definitely something wrong with the circuitry.
sound would not go past 65% without cutting out at high pitched noises and volume waaay to low. it was from grounding both left and right outputs on the pam board. could not fix the aio so i just rerouted the audio through my own pam(pic was only for test haha) and it works perfect. definitely something wrong with the circuitry.
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Re: All in One PCB Support Thread
try hookung the resistors you added to the speaker + pad not -dongilles wrote:Can someone help me? I tried the above to reduce cracking of the sound after shielding the speaker cables. but now I have no sound at all.Tomatoflames wrote:Solution found! Thanks @Helder.
Issue: Extremely choppy and quiet audio through speaker.
Solution: Added resistors as suggested by Helder which, instantly increased the volume and reduced the choppiness to a very playable level. No other steps were required apart from hookup as shown on Helder's wiring diagram and the config file, both of which are found on page 1 of this thread.
My setup: AIO 2.2A with 5 pin audio jack, Raspberry Pi v1.3, Adafruit Powerboost 1000C TPS61000, and 8 Ohm 1/2 Watt speakers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WW ... UTF8&psc=1
Parts Required: Two 75ohm 1/2 watt resistors, Three 1.5 inch long pieces of extra PWM or audio wire and a small piece of perf board.
Resistors from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002 ... UTF8&psc=1
To do:
Place resistors into the perf board parallel and adjacent to each other and solder the ends together on one side to make a U shape.
Solder a wire from the bottom of the U, on the side you just joined, to the Speaker - pad on the AIO.
On the other side of the perf board, solder a wire from the end of one resistor to the right side of R15.
Solder another wire from the end of the other resistor to the right side of R16.
Done
You do have extra perf board that you used for practice, right?!
For excellent soldering tips to protect your investment - http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=21465
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