All in One PCB Support Thread

[Helder]

How are you getting audio to the headphones without connecting the Volume wheel or using jumper wires between RIN>ROUT and LIN>LOUT?

[Helder]

I am also having the same sound issue. I'll look into both the suggested solutions to see if it works.

Such as noise or the audio clipping? Noise is always going to be present in one way or another even if you shield everything it just will be less noticeable. the clipping might be happening because the combining resistors are too low in value, what you could do is change the config from audio to MONO and solder PWM1 and PWM0 together with a jumper wire.

Change the config.txt so the audio line is one of the 2 below (depends on which wire you decide to use for audio)

dtoverlay=pwm,pin=18,func=2

OR

dtoverlay=pwm,pin=13,func=4

[HoolyHoo]

Thank you, I will check that out. And yes, I am using 2 analog sticks

I only included support for one joystick in my code.

[Xer0W0lfX]

Was wondering if anyone else with a 2.2A board was having issues with Arduino when theyre trying to upload sketches into the board. After hitting upload, it compiles the sketch and the board disconnects itself right before the upload process begins. wiring is fine and stays consistently connected otherwise, so Im guessing im doing something wrong on the Arduino side of things.


this is the error message


Any suggestions would help

Edit: Solved.

[jermzz]

I am also having the same sound issue. I'll look into both the suggested solutions to see if it works.

Such as noise or the audio clipping? Noise is always going to be present in one way or another even if you shield everything it just will be less noticeable. the clipping might be happening because the combining resistors are too low in value, what you could do is change the config from audio to MONO and solder PWM1 and PWM0 together with a jumper wire.

Change the config.txt so the audio line is one of the 2 below (depends on which wire you decide to use for audio)

dtoverlay=pwm,pin=18,func=2

OR

dtoverlay=pwm,pin=13,func=4

So I did this and problem persists. Although much less, I STILL get choppyness (and freezes) with mono sound. Does this confirm the resistors need to be changed?

if so can you recommend a link to get the right ones? Or if you have some I'll gladly pay them / shipping.

also, in the mean time, how would I wire a dac to the all in one? Havent done usb audio, yet but it sounds like a good idea until I can get this sorted, and I have one on hand. Would I just wire L out and R out to PWM 0 and 1? Or will that cause the same problem?

[VeteranGamer]

So I did this and problem persists. Although much less, I STILL get choppyness (and freezes) with mono sound. Does this confirm the resistors need to be changed?

if so can you recommend a link to get the right ones? Or if you have some I'll gladly pay them / shipping.

also, in the mean time, how would I wire a dac to the all in one? Havent done usb audio, yet but it sounds like a good idea until I can get this sorted, and I have one on hand. Would I just wire L out and R out to PWM 0 and 1? Or will that cause the same problem?

i was thinking about wiring up usb audio, but i may leave that for another build (fitting a usb device and an amp may be tight in my current build).....

the onboard audio is fine it justs needs the right envioroment (providing the wiring is correct), my aio board originally came with 10ohm resistors, i changed them for 75ohm (still an issue) joined the the two pwm wires together and put a jumper from the resistors to the speaker.... that actually worked or so i though as i had only really been testing without the case closed, once closed the problem arose again, so i shielded the pwm wires, that seemed to have resolved the issue....

but i was wrong.... while my son was playing with it, i actually noticed that tetris sounded off (he actually was none the wiser and was most probably thinking thats how things were back in the old day).... so i going to reshield the wire and the reason for this may be obvious in this video

watch the video til the end (its unlisted so i'm not trying to generate views)




theres obviously something causing noise or interference and most probably nothing to do with the resistors (unless your getting low volume)....


if you want to go down the usb audio route, this may help (i havent tried it and there are posts already about this)

[Lololo]

How are you getting audio to the headphones without connecting the Volume wheel or using jumper wires between RIN>ROUT and LIN>LOUT?

Yes I know I can not have sound.

But the goal was to test the noise ... I thought like this does not hear any background noise ... which is not the case

[Lololo]

ahhhhhh, in wanting to redo the connections, I broke them.

Is there a way to connect the headphone to another location
:

ouille.JPG (48.17 KiB) Viewed 9364 times

-(?

EDIT:

I think I could put the headphone back ... but still breath problems

SpoilerShow

20170512_144140.jpg (479.01 KiB) Viewed 9349 times

[Helder]

ahhhhhh, in wanting to redo the connections, I broke them.

Is there a way to connect the headphone to another location
uille.JPG-(?

EDIT:

I think I could put the headphone back ... but still breath problems

SpoilerShow

20170512_144140.jpg

First post has images of alternate points (do people even look at that post?). A USB sound card can be used with the board instead of PWM and it works rather well. Hollyhoo has done this recently and didn't need to change anything on board if it had 10 ohms since it got a little low with higher value resistors.

Basically you take the usb output L,R and connect those to the top 2 pins on the Volume wheel (L and R) and then everything connects like it does in the image on the first post .

If I had the usb sound card and volume wheel fritzing parts I'd make a diagram so it's "easy" to follow.

[jermzz]

So, since I can't run out for resistors til tomorrow, I tried hooking up USB audio. Plugged the dac into the USB port of the gameboy and put wires from L and R out to L and R in on the potentiometer. Same choppy shit sound. So then I just went straight to the speaker and it sounded perfect, just low obviously because there's not much amplification.

So I guess all that's left is to change those resistors. It's obviously something between the pots and the headphone jack, and based on the quiet sound, the amp is working as expected. Sigh, this is way more work than it should be.