All in One PCB Support Thread

[jermzz]

So I did this and problem persists. Although much less, I STILL get choppyness (and freezes) with mono sound. Does this confirm the resistors need to be changed?

if so can you recommend a link to get the right ones? Or if you have some I'll gladly pay them / shipping.

also, in the mean time, how would I wire a dac to the all in one? Havent done usb audio, yet but it sounds like a good idea until I can get this sorted, and I have one on hand. Would I just wire L out and R out to PWM 0 and 1? Or will that cause the same problem?

i was thinking about wiring up usb audio, but i may leave that for another build (fitting a usb device and an amp may be tight in my current build).....

the onboard audio is fine it justs needs the right envioroment (providing the wiring is correct), my aio board originally came with 10ohm resistors, i changed them for 75ohm (still an issue) joined the the two pwm wires together and put a jumper from the resistors to the speaker.... that actually worked or so i though as i had only really been testing without the case closed, once closed the problem arose again, so i shielded the pwm wires, that seemed to have resolved the issue....

but i was wrong.... while my son was playing with it, i actually noticed that tetris sounded off (he actually was none the wiser and was most probably thinking thats how things were back in the old day).... so i going to reshield the wire and the reason for this may be obvious in this video

watch the video til the end (its unlisted so i'm not trying to generate views)




theres obviously something causing noise or interference and most probably nothing to do with the resistors (unless your getting low volume)....


if you want to go down the usb audio route, this may help (i havent tried it and there are posts already about this)

Mine is actually way worse than yours. I only heard a few stutters from yours. Mine is very noticeable in stereo. And even mono, although less.

The wire mod is to connect both right sides of the resistors to the - of the speaker right? I did this with a wire by hand just to test and the sound got so choppy that the music almost stopped.

If I can't find the resistors tomorrow when I'm out and about, I'm to a point where I'll just have to use the dac and and a separate amp and just wire all the audio separately

[VeteranGamer]

Mine is actually way worse than yours. I only heard a few stutters from yours. Mine is very noticeable in stereo. And even mono, although less.

The wire mod is to connect both right sides of the resistors to the - of the speaker right? I did this with a wire by hand just to test and the sound got so choppy that the music almost stopped.

If I can't find the resistors tomorrow when I'm out and about, I'm to a point where I'll just have to use the dac and and a separate amp and just wire all the audio separately

i dont know if your didnt notice.... i put the usb receiver for my keyboard in the socket and no choppyness, removed it and its very choppy put it back in and the choppyness goes away


mine looks like this with the jumper cable... if i put the jumper to - its choppy, put it to + its fine (could look better, but it works)
and the volume wheel is all wired up




i was at that point aswell, but the audio will work fine once everything is tweaked.... plus it meant the whole left side of that board would become redundant and then finding space to add two more componants


if your in the UK

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THICK-FILM-08 ... YK6Lx5cnpg

or you can pop down to your local maplins and pick up the normal (non-smd)

[jermzz]

Mine is actually way worse than yours. I only heard a few stutters from yours. Mine is very noticeable in stereo. And even mono, although less.

The wire mod is to connect both right sides of the resistors to the - of the speaker right? I did this with a wire by hand just to test and the sound got so choppy that the music almost stopped.

If I can't find the resistors tomorrow when I'm out and about, I'm to a point where I'll just have to use the dac and and a separate amp and just wire all the audio separately

i dont know if your didnt notice.... i put the usb receiver for my keyboard in the socket and no choppyness, removed it and its very choppy put it back in and the choppyness goes away


mine looks like this with the jumper cable... if i put the jumper to - its choppy, put it to + its fine (could look better, but it works)
and the volume wheel is all wired up




i was at that point aswell, but the audio will work fine once everything is tweaked.... plus it meant the whole left side of that board would become redundant and then finding space to add two more componants


if your in the UK

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THICK-FILM-08 ... YK6Lx5cnpg

or you can pop down to your local maplins and pick up the normal (non-smd)

I don't think I had my volume up loud enough first run through on listening to your video. I see that the receiver mkes the choppyness go away? Why is that? Hmmm.

Headed out now to see what I can find at the store, will try a couple more mods and see what come out of it before I go the USB audio route completely.

[jermzz]

Seems to be working now in stereo. After shielding the pwm wires, changing the resistors, and running a jumper. I couldn't find the surface mounts, so I got the really small ones and they do fit under the battery tray. Barely I assume.

[VeteranGamer]

Seems to be working now in stereo. After shielding the pwm wires, changing the resistors, and running a jumper. I couldn't find the surface mounts, so I got the really small ones and they do fit under the battery tray. Barely I assume.

great stuff.... at least you know it can work, if you want you can always change the resistor later (but once its closed up no ones gonna see it)

at least its saved you from scraping the pwm for the usb and trying to fit more stuff in, you can always try usb audio in your next build (i most probably will)

[jermzz]

Seems to be working now in stereo. After shielding the pwm wires, changing the resistors, and running a jumper. I couldn't find the surface mounts, so I got the really small ones and they do fit under the battery tray. Barely I assume.

great stuff.... at least you know it can work, if you want you can always change the resistor later (but once its closed up no ones gonna see it)

at least its saved you from scraping the pwm for the usb and trying to fit more stuff in, you can always try usb audio in your next build (i most probably will)

Thanks for the help. After playing for a while I notice there's still a very slight hesitation every 3 or so seconds. Very slight. Can't even detect it in the sound, but there's very brief lag.

Same as before when I plug a keyboard into the gameboy all problems go away.

You or anyone else know why that is?

[VeteranGamer]

Seems to be working now in stereo. After shielding the pwm wires, changing the resistors, and running a jumper. I couldn't find the surface mounts, so I got the really small ones and they do fit under the battery tray. Barely I assume.

great stuff.... at least you know it can work, if you want you can always change the resistor later (but once its closed up no ones gonna see it)

at least its saved you from scraping the pwm for the usb and trying to fit more stuff in, you can always try usb audio in your next build (i most probably will)

Thanks for the help. After playing for a while I notice there's still a very slight hesitation every 3 or so seconds. Very slight. Can't even detect it in the sound, but there's very brief lag.

Same as before when I plug a keyboard into the gameboy all problems go away.

You or anyone else know why that is?

i'm really not too sure, but i'm gonna re-shied the pwm wires and see if that resolves it

like you i've got my pi zero sitting right above the usb hub, i'm not sure if that whats causing the interferance... but it is strange that when something is plugged into the usb socket the sound clears up

one thing is certain that the pwm audio does work on these boards, it just need the right wiring and envioromet (my opinion)

it would be interesting to see if ppl who have the pi zero in another place experience the same issue....

with so many boards sold, not many in the show off section or complaining of any issues

[jermzz]

great stuff.... at least you know it can work, if you want you can always change the resistor later (but once its closed up no ones gonna see it)

at least its saved you from scraping the pwm for the usb and trying to fit more stuff in, you can always try usb audio in your next build (i most probably will)

Thanks for the help. After playing for a while I notice there's still a very slight hesitation every 3 or so seconds. Very slight. Can't even detect it in the sound, but there's very brief lag.

Same as before when I plug a keyboard into the gameboy all problems go away.

You or anyone else know why that is?

i'm really not too sure, but i'm gonna re-shied the pwm wires and see if that resolves it

like you i've got my pi zero sitting right above the usb hub, i'm not sure if that whats causing the interferance... but it is strange that when something is plugged into the usb socket the sound clears up

one thing is certain that the pwm audio does work on these boards, it just need the right wiring and envioromet (my opinion)

it would be interesting to see if ppl who have the pi zero in another place experience the same issue....

with so many boards sold, not many in the show off section or complaining of any issues

I would normally agree, however I purchased 4 of this 2.2 board. Only this one had any issue whatsoever. If the pi zero was the culprit, I would expect to have this issue on all the builds, as the pi is in the same place.

any speculation on this Helder?

[VeteranGamer]

Thanks for the help. After playing for a while I notice there's still a very slight hesitation every 3 or so seconds. Very slight. Can't even detect it in the sound, but there's very brief lag.

Same as before when I plug a keyboard into the gameboy all problems go away.

You or anyone else know why that is?

i'm really not too sure, but i'm gonna re-shied the pwm wires and see if that resolves it

like you i've got my pi zero sitting right above the usb hub, i'm not sure if that whats causing the interferance... but it is strange that when something is plugged into the usb socket the sound clears up

one thing is certain that the pwm audio does work on these boards, it just need the right wiring and envioromet (my opinion)

it would be interesting to see if ppl who have the pi zero in another place experience the same issue....

with so many boards sold, not many in the show off section or complaining of any issues

I would normally agree, however I purchased 4 of this 2.2 board. Only this one had any issue whatsoever. If the pi zero was the culprit, I would expect to have this issue on all the builds, as the pi is in the same place.

any speculation on this Helder?

well that puts that theory to bed.....

but it is a little strange that putting something in the usb socket sort of solves it or clears it up

i'm gonna re-shield the wires, and will give feedback then

[Helder]

Maybe a bad ground somewhere? are all GND points going to the AIO powerstrip area? Maybe use a filter cap like 10uf between one of the 5V and GND points on the usb hub solder holes like the one you are using as an external usb connector you plugged the keyboard in. Put the positive side of the cap (usually the one WITHOUT the WHITE Stripe) to 5V and the White stripe aka the negative to GND.

What power boost board are you using in the build? has it differed from previous builds?