I've got 8mm clicky switches on the back of mine, there's just enough to tuck them above the 400mah battery. If you want more juice it'll be better to place them in the cap.

Worked for me too, thanks Kite!

Okay, maybe it's not just me then. I can't get R to work either, I was going to use the surface pads rather than the JST connector once I had more time to fiddle. L works just fine.

Do you have a multimeter you can use to check continuity with? I thought all my solder joints we're good but I couldn't get the screen to save my life. Turns out I had a bad screen reset joint. Kite has the pinout on the FAQ, double check to make sure the pins and the breakout points match up. Also ...

I've got a Monoprice Maker Select V2. I'll try Cura, thank you!

So this is interesting. The .stl has some strange artifacts when I try to run it through MatterControl, see attached. What software are you using to slice the file?

I'm also having some serious issues warping, but that's all on my printer. Stupid tape keeps peeling up.

I've got a couple of these hats I bought on a whim but never got around to making a case, thanks for sharing! I'll try to find time to print off a copy, life's been crazy lately but my better 3/4 has to work tomorrow so I might actually have half a Saturday off myself.

Very nice! Does the tin glow too? I've got a Mystifying Mints tin I'm saving for a V3 but mine's the color of old parchment.

As others have said the MintyPi is based on a Pi 0 W so it's mostly a retro gaming device. Gameboy, NES, SNES, and Genesis are the most common systems I've seen but you can also play Neo Geo Pocket games. Personally I've had a Gameboy in hand since I was five, so I have mine loaded up with the origi...

Legit! There's something to be said for modularity. With a 3D printed chassis and USB controller it'll be a lot easier to update your controls. And if they come out with a newer Pi it'll almost be plug and play.