Gameboy Null Project

Got an idea for a project? Found a cool project you want to share? Post it here!
Post Reply
muttb0ne
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2018 8:52 pm
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 1 time

Gameboy Null Project

Post by muttb0ne » Thu Aug 02, 2018 7:41 pm

Ok, so I've ordered ampersand's Gameboy Null pcb kit, an I've seen a few people mention that it does not output sound, as it doesn't have an amp or headphone jack. Will the Pi Zero's built in bluetooth be able to send sound to a speaker, or....? Seems like a silly question, but I've had some bad luck with the on-board bluetooth to get working properly on a few past projects.

Also, as I've just ordered the kit, I'm already antsy with receiving it, as it comes from the UK an I'm all the way over in the US. *sigh

muttb0ne
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2018 8:52 pm
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: Gameboy Null Project

Post by muttb0ne » Sun Aug 12, 2018 12:05 pm

Well, the Gameboy Null kit came in the post, an was surprisingly quick! A day short of a week from the UK to the southern US. Quality of the kit was excellent! Everything included was packaged well, an the pcb itself was very well done.

However, being the first time I've tried to solder one pcb directly to another (RaspPi directly to the gameboy null pcb via the through-holes), I must have bridged some pads underneath. As there is no way to see this happen, you must test each connection with a voltmeter as you go along. Everything seemed fine till I turned the unit on for the first time. Screen lit up (though flickered a bit), but the Pi did not power on. It was then I realized my simple mistake. Whilst soldering the two boards, I HAD bridged a couple pads, yet my voltmeter did not pick this up, as I had used it for another project earlier in the week, an I had it on the wrong setting. I am so embarrassed.

Tried carefully to remove the Pi, but as I do not (yet) have a working rework station, did the best I could, but destroyed both boards. Mainly a few pads of the Null pcb lifted off, an burned up the Pi.

I will be ordering a new kit, as I believe second time's a charm. I would, however, like to make a small criticism to ampersand for perhaps version 2.0 of his great kit. I think the power switch should be moved over to the left of the right a few mm's, as to be out of line-of-site of the Pi's micro USB power input. As it is, once the Pi is soldered on, you cannot get a power lead directly into the Pi, as the Null's on/off switch is directly in front of it. I discovered this when thinking of powering on the Pi directly to see if I burned out the Pi before attempting to remove it from the pcb, as I would likely destroy either the Pi or the Null. Turns out, both. D'oh!

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests