Burger King Gameboy build log

[eggbowl]

Hello all, I've been a lurker here on the forums for a few months now, but now I've got a project I want to show off. I've seen a few people making gbz's out of the burger king toy, but couldn't find anyone documenting their process or doing a build guide. Note that I'm a complete noob (this is only my second raspberry pi build) so this is probably gonna be a mess, but figure that you can learn from my mistakes. I'm planning on including ABXY and LR buttons, mono speaker, a 2 inch screen, and a headphone jack.
Introductions aside, I bought a Sunflora bkgb from ebay. I was surprised at how small it is.

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There were no screws, so I had to cut the case to get it open. I cut the section under the hinged false back. I don't have a dremel tool (hoping to get one for xmas) so I used a craft knife.

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There were plastic stalks holding the piece together extremely well. I tried pulling the halves apart, but ended up having to cut them. The good news is that I think I can use them as screw holds. There is a good amount of space in the shell when you include the space from the hinged back.
Two problems that I'm expecting are that the "speaker" grill is underneath one of the screw stalks, and I'm not sure what to do about the large hole where the fake d-pad was. I might try to patch it with some of the plastic off cuts, but I don't know if that will look very good.
I'm waiting on parts to arrive from Aliexpress now, so I probably won't be able to update this thread for a while.

[VeteranGamer]

I'm planning on including ABXY and LR buttons, mono speaker, a 2 inch screen, and a headphone jack.

There is a good amount of space in the shell when you include the space from the hinged back.

Two problems that I'm expecting are that the "speaker" grill is underneath one of the screw stalks, and I'm not sure what to do about the large hole where the fake d-pad was. I might try to patch it with some of the plastic off cuts, but I don't know if that will look very good.

Helder has posted some boards for this type of build....



https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/UlYa9J9v
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/JY40ihVH


Hes also has a github post where he give instructions on how to enable the screen....

https://github.com/Helder1981/BK-GBC


NB:
if you were planning on using the boards designed by Helder....
ordering them from Oshpark is a little on the steep side (just MHO)...
if you download the files (from Oshpark) and use them when ordering from a manufacturer from China (for example PCBWAY), you'll be able to get the boards a lot cheaper....
the boards should cost you at a max $10 (for both) not including shipping
(slightly cheaper if you shop around, still not including shipping but shipping shouldn't be more than $6-7)



I've got a few of these BK GBC toys....
and am also planning on making them into Raspberry Pi powered handhelds...
they've just been put on the back burner for now will pick up the project in the new year...






I'm just planning on just having A, B, and L, R (I want to keep the look of the front as close to a GBC as possible)
I just want a little build that my kids can play Game Boy games (GB, GBC, GBA) and maybe the odd NES....
(other games would be playable if setting are adjusted like from SMS, GG, LYNX, MD and some SNES)
especially as the screen is going to be so small, i'd rather not have too much going on... on screen...
(but I do see the appeal of having A,B,X,Y,L,R)









the BK GBC toys available in the UK, are not exactly the same as you would find internationally....
especially like the ones available in the states, which have the flip hatch at the back (like the one you have)...

also not all are the same, as you've discovered....
the ones with the deep screen animated/articulated moving models (like your sunflower)...
benefit from a deeper housing/case (this is based on the UK one i have)
(compared to the one that just have a slider type image in the screen)
but have a larger Dpad opening, compared to the slimmer one (which will easily accommodate a GBC Dpad)
(unfortunately this I'm assuming is to accommodate the mechanism for the movement of the model)







I've also consider using some of the unwanted plastic (being the same colour as the housing/case)....
and just adding an extra MM to the UP and Down parts of the opening, as you can cut the Left and Right to what ever size/opening you want....
it might look a little janky, it might not...
but only a MM or so is needed, so if done correctly it might be able to be pulled off....

the other option i've also considered is to use a NES style Dpad (a DMG one will also work)

https://www.deadpanrobot.co.uk/nes-styl ... ns-dmg-nes

the NES style gives you the similar look to the GBC Dpad...
and as its a slightly bigger Dpad, it should compensate the extra space in the opening....
(you just have to realise it is a larger Dpad, especially in comparison to the GBC buttons)



For the speaker...
I wouldn't worry too much on that part....
the challenge is NOT the speaker or its size or placement....
but drilling out the speaker holes precisely
as to not avoid it looking like a mess of holes on the front and ruining the look....

one recommendation for a speaker to use would be one of these....

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NeoThin ... 0c338a0808

you dont need a round speaker, you just need one that fits....


Good luck with the build....
and looking forward to your progress....



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[eggbowl]

Hello again, and happy new year! I was visiting family for the holidays and just got back. Waiting for me was the PCBs (I ordered Helder's boards and sent them through pcbway) and speakers from aliexpress.
The speakers seem like they'll fit fine.

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The PCBs however were another story. The cutouts in the boards don't match up with the "screw holes" in the case. They interfered with the board reaching the bottom of the case. I elected to remove them instead of messing around with cutting up the PCBs.

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Once they were removed though, things sat nicely. The button traces lined up with the holes. I will need to design and print new screw brackets eventually, but I can worry about that later.

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Finally, the LCD board. Even with as much material as possible removed from the shell, the board would still not go in to the case.

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I might be able to grind down some of the board on the right side, as there are no traces there. I'll wait until the actual screens arrive before I do anything else though.

[VeteranGamer]

Hello again, and happy new year!.

you're images are not working....
(well not for me anyway)





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[eggbowl]

you're images are not working....
(well not for me anyway)
.

I've updated the picture links, they should be working now.

[eggbowl]

The screens arrived today. They are too big though, being 2 inches on the diagonal, where the hole for the screen is 1.9 inches. At such a small scale it's a noticeable difference. It also doesn't fit centered. I'm going to change to a 1.8 in screen, which unfortunately makes the LCD PCBs useless.

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[DieselDummy]

None of your images from Jan 4 post and after are working

[Helder]

No one can see them so use something like https://postimages.org/ to host the images. If you can see them on your google account does not mean the rest of us can.

[eggbowl]

alright i uploaded onto postimages and checked in incognito and it works so hopefully that takes care of the pictures for real this time

[VeteranGamer]

The screens arrived today. They are too big though, being 2 inches on the diagonal, where the hole for the screen is 1.9 inches. At such a small scale it's a noticeable difference. It also doesn't fit centered. I'm going to change to a 1.8 in screen, which unfortunately makes the LCD PCBs useless.

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CAVEAT there are slight case difference in these Burger King Game Boy TOYS



if you are basing your measurement when the screen isn't even power on.....
then i think your gonna end up wasting time and money on getting a new screen....

the 2" screen is tried and tested..

https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... =20#p64851

and you'll find...
if your measuring from the edge of the screen itself for your fitment requirement
then you also have to account for the when the screen is power on....
as when powered on, it will not be to the complete edges (there will be a boarder)

Finally, the LCD board. Even with as much material as possible removed from the shell, the board would still not go in to the case.

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Helder been kind enough to share these boards.....
but these can NOT be taken as plug and play boards...

especially as NOT all the Burger King Game Boy TOY case/shell are the same.....

as your've already mentioned...
your best bet is to trim the board to make it fit.....
(there is plenty of space either side without you causing any damage or rendering the board useless)



or better still...
do what I've done....
just come up with your own board....
(based on the case/shell you have)

If I can do it, anyone can do it....
(I'm a complete NOOB, with NO experience in any of this)

(Youtube is your friend, and have a can do attitude)...
Learn something NEW....











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