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Re: STL Files for 3D-Printing mintyPi

Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 1:01 am
by HoolyHoo
sygyzy wrote: โ†‘
Fri Oct 20, 2017 12:40 am
Does anyone have any advice for printing the parts, particularly the faceplate? I feel the orientation should be rotated so the face is upside down (flat against the build plate), but I am not sure how the logo would be affected in this case. I am guessing there would be support material built. Has anyone tried printing it vertically?
The faceplate should be printed face down with the logo facing the build plate. If using PLA and a good cooling fan, you should have no issues bridging the logo without any support. This will give you the smoothest finish on the face you will see in the tin. ๐Ÿ˜‰

Re: STL Files for 3D-Printing mintyPi

Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 8:04 am
by wermy
Updated screw-less bezel version is linked to in the wiki: http://www.sudomod.com/wiki/index.php?title=MintyPi#FAQ

Re: STL Files for 3D-Printing mintyPi

Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 8:10 am
by cobramike
wermy wrote: โ†‘
Fri Oct 20, 2017 8:04 am
Updated screw-less bezel version is linked to in the wiki: http://www.sudomod.com/wiki/index.php?title=MintyPi#FAQ
Woop Woop Thanks wermy.

Re: STL Files for 3D-Printing mintyPi

Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 9:06 am
by Thump52
Thank you for the files and all the hard work you do for all of us, I watched the updated minty-pi video you posted today and my only regret is that I didn't have any popcorn :lol: , keep them coming and cant wait for further projects you said you had coming.

Re: STL Files for 3D-Printing mintyPi

Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 3:07 pm
by sygyzy
HoolyHoo wrote: โ†‘
Fri Oct 20, 2017 1:01 am
sygyzy wrote: โ†‘
Fri Oct 20, 2017 12:40 am
Does anyone have any advice for printing the parts, particularly the faceplate? I feel the orientation should be rotated so the face is upside down (flat against the build plate), but I am not sure how the logo would be affected in this case. I am guessing there would be support material built. Has anyone tried printing it vertically?
The faceplate should be printed face down with the logo facing the build plate. If using PLA and a good cooling fan, you should have no issues bridging the logo without any support. This will give you the smoothest finish on the face you will see in the tin. ๐Ÿ˜‰
This is perfect. Thank you!!!!

Re: STL Files for 3D-Printing mintyPi

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:05 pm
by treesfullofbees
Quick question. When you printed the v2 mintypi, did you print all the pla materials at 100% infill for can you do less. Also did any of you print the hinge parts with just abs? If so what infill? Thanks

Re: STL Files for 3D-Printing mintyPi

Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 10:43 pm
by dryja123
treesfullofbees wrote: โ†‘
Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:05 pm
Quick question. When you printed the v2 mintypi, did you print all the pla materials at 100% infill for can you do less. Also did any of you print the hinge parts with just abs? If so what infill? Thanks
You can keep it at a standard 20% infill. Since the parts are so thin theyโ€™ll basically be solid if youโ€™re using 2-3 top and bottom solid layers.

Re: STL Files for 3D-Printing mintyPi

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 10:29 pm
by treesfullofbees
Awesome, thanks.

Re: STL Files for 3D-Printing mintyPi

Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 3:56 pm
by AdmiralP
Anyone have a trick for putting the hinge parts together? I've calibrated my x and y axis, and the bezel is snapping together with enough ease so I'm fairly confident the parts are printing correctly. That being said, I am pretty new to 3D printing so take that all with a grain of salt.

Either way, my parts do not snap together easily, and I'm wondering if there is a trick... if that's common... if my printer is off just enough to make this a pain in the @#$%...

Any tips are appreciated.

I am only printing in PLA for what it's worth. I've got a bed upgrade on hand so I can print in ABS, but I figure I'll try and get the PLA down first.

Re: STL Files for 3D-Printing mintyPi

Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 11:22 pm
by Helder
I sometimes had to just barely open the holes with a drill bit by hand so it would fit. Often times I'd use a hot soldering iron to melt the nub that goes through the arm hole and flatten it so it acts as a stopper.