Ive updated the bracket to use silicone switches.This has allowed me to squeeze the buttons closer, and push the whole bracket further down the back, meaning it is much more comfortable to reach. The bottom buttons are now aligned the same as my 2-button bracket, so if you want to switch out your old bracket for this one with 4 buttons, it can be done easily. Now included is a spacer/guide, that allows you to drill centered, and then the middle snaps off to be used as a spacer in your buttons. Please purchase through the product page on my website, which also has the new instructions. All purchases are still through paypal on my website, so you are still protected. All recent orders will receive this version.
Absolutely no glue necessary, like all my items. Everything is pressure fit and screwed into place. Bottom bracket pops into place and is held with the pressure against the cart reader tabs. After buttons and switches have been inserted, the side pieces screw into the case and put pressure on the top to secure it further. Utilizes screws used for the back metal plate. Install instructions found on website link. PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS. THERE ARE IMPORTANT STEPS THAT MUST NOT BE SKIPPED, OTHERWISE IT WILL NOT FUNCTION PROPERLY
Purchase link:
http://glitchdgaming.com/index.php/prod ... r-bracket/
Full set comes with printed brackets, well guide/spacer, screws, switches, and buttons. Stand alone includes all of the above, except buttons.
Next, remove the lip of the conductive pads. This is extremely important. If youi dont, the tabs of the button will hit the lip and it wont press. This step can not be skipped. The best way to do it is to use a pair of flush cutters, makes it very easy and can clip it off in about 2 min. I like to clip the entire lip except for where the mounting peg goes. From experience, this spot can be a little annoying and may rip. So i just avoid it. In the picture below, the pad on the right is untouched and the pad on the left is how it should look after cutting. Notice the lip around the pad is removed and everything is flat.
Now simply place the pad mounting holes around the guide pegs on the bottom bracket. You will notice the tabs on the sides of the case impede the pads. Just push the pad to the side as shown below. The pad will look a little "bent" but it doesnt affect the buttons. Place the pcbs over the pads, and screw in the center screws to make sure they are aligned.
Now place the side brackets on the case. The top of each side bracket screws into the screwposts for the metal plate. You will have to remove the metal plate for this item to work. The side brackets hug the other peg and screw post. Just slide it down over them. Then place the caps on top of the tall screwposts to hold the side brackets down. The caps are the proper height to hold up kites hdmi board, so DO NOT SOLDER KITES SPACERS. THIS IS IMPORTANT. IF YOU SOLDER THE SPACERS, THEN YOUR HDMI BOARD WILL BE TOO HIGH. Just screw the caps down and you are done! I highly recommend placing a spacer in the buttons if the actions isnt crisp enough. Try cutting off a small piece of plastic from the screen cover that comes with the cases, and place it inside the buttons, then place the pads on top. This will make the buttons MUCH more reactive.
For wiring, there are 2 grounds on each pcb. Solder a wire from one ground, to the ground on the other pcb. Now the ground are tied together, and when you get ready to solder your wires o your control board, you only need to use one ground wire to connect. Solder your signal cables from the pins labled "L" and "R" to your control board. And as i said before, with the grounds tied, you now only need to solder one ground cable, from any available open ground pin left to the ground on your control board.