Collecting information on alternative displays - please contribute

[Treguard]

Currently using the BW car display on Amazon and it seems to work ok without having to chamge/remove the voltage regulator.
The image came on for about 5 seconds the first time i switched it on, but it stays on now np.

The only thing i've noticed is that there are flickering/hazy lines over the image. I haven't correctly changed the resolution to 320x240 and disabled overscan, but unsure if this is what would be causing the image to flicker.

Am i right in assuming that a composite image is either there 100% or not, i.e. unlike RF which can suffer from distortion if not tuned correctly. (E.g. if i haven't soldered one of the four wires correctly.....on that subject, is there a way to test the connections with multimeter on the screen end, as i've already put hot glue over the red and black wires (5v and ground......if either wasn't correctly soldered then would the screen just not come on??)

Thanks

[chaosratt]

Currently using the BW car display on Amazon and it seems to work ok without having to chamge/remove the voltage regulator.
The image came on for about 5 seconds the first time i switched it on, but it stays on now np.

The only thing i've noticed is that there are flickering/hazy lines over the image. I haven't correctly changed the resolution to 320x240 and disabled overscan, but unsure if this is what would be causing the image to flicker.

Am i right in assuming that a composite image is either there 100% or not, i.e. unlike RF which can suffer from distortion if not tuned correctly. (E.g. if i haven't soldered one of the four wires correctly.....on that subject, is there a way to test the connections with multimeter on the screen end, as i've already put hot glue over the red and black wires (5v and ground......if either wasn't correctly soldered then would the screen just not come on??)

Thanks

What you describe I believe other people refer to as "phasing". It means your power circuit is dirty. You either need to remove the power regulator entirely , or cut its output and bypass it. The how varies depending on which model of driver board you have.

[Treguard]

Currently using the BW car display on Amazon and it seems to work ok without having to chamge/remove the voltage regulator.
The image came on for about 5 seconds the first time i switched it on, but it stays on now np.

The only thing i've noticed is that there are flickering/hazy lines over the image. I haven't correctly changed the resolution to 320x240 and disabled overscan, but unsure if this is what would be causing the image to flicker.

Am i right in assuming that a composite image is either there 100% or not, i.e. unlike RF which can suffer from distortion if not tuned correctly. (E.g. if i haven't soldered one of the four wires correctly.....on that subject, is there a way to test the connections with multimeter on the screen end, as i've already put hot glue over the red and black wires (5v and ground......if either wasn't correctly soldered then would the screen just not come on??)

Thanks

What you describe I believe other people refer to as "phasing". It means your power circuit is dirty. You either need to remove the power regulator entirely , or cut its output and bypass it. The how varies depending on which model of driver board you have.

Thanks for the reply. I think i have Variant 7. Fingers crossed just putting a jumper wire from the regulator should do it (think its VCC to red)

[JLuke]

is there any chance someone has ordered a screen recently (within the last few days on amazon) and gotten one with a small board?
Most links I try seem to direct me to the seller ATian Direct which I ordered from and ended up receiving one with the large board and no way to trim off one side to remove the control buttons.

I'd just spend the money for the adafruit one but it's shown out of stock for a week now, I've never dealt with the site till now and have no idea how long it takes to get things back in stock.

[chaosratt]

is there any chance someone has ordered a screen recently (within the last few days on amazon) and gotten one with a small board?
Most links I try seem to direct me to the seller ATian Direct which I ordered from and ended up receiving one with the large board and no way to trim off one side to remove the control buttons.

I'd just spend the money for the adafruit one but it's shown out of stock for a week now, I've never dealt with the site till now and have no idea how long it takes to get things back in stock.

I bought this display on the 24th (1 week ago today) and it came with the board I posted pictures to previously in this thread.

[JLuke]

Thanks, went ahead and tried that store, I hope I get a good one.

[Zero]

Got 2x BW's here from Amazon. Both appear to be 'V2' models from the wiki yet in the info, it states that it doesn't come with a button board, but mine have. Odd.

I don't have a needle thin soldering iron tip so it was a real pain to link the chip to the positive terminal. Ended up having to remove a capacitor that was in the way.

[RxBrad]

Got 2x BW's here from Amazon. Both appear to be 'V2' models from the wiki yet in the info, it states that it doesn't come with a button board, but mine have. Odd.

I don't have a needle thin soldering iron tip so it was a real pain to link the chip to the positive terminal. Ended up having to remove a capacitor that was in the way.

Guys, don't forget to include the SELLER NAME if buying from Amazon, what country you're in, and whether you used Prime Shipping.

Prime Shipping comes from an in-country warehouse, and non-Prime is often from China. So, please, note if you used Prime Shipping or not. For example, this appears to make a difference if using EPATHDEALS as a seller (their non-Prime boards appear to be huge & unusable for a GBZ, while Prime Shipping boards are the BW V7).

[Zero]

Non Prime. From BW, Amazon UK. Didn't ship from China. All good (as per my post above).

[Treguard]

I'm reposing this here and deleted my original post.

I just took apart a display from aliexpress that cost me $17.00. It requires only a small modification to get it to run off 5V. The PCB appears to be very similar to the "noname GearBest 3.5 Composite Display" but with adjustments board for contrast, brightness and tint.

Resolution is: 480W x 272H according to leaflet.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Newest-S ... .83.sIhq6k

Display with the back off, 2 screws. The rest ist just stuck on with some sticky tape.
IMG_20160805_200814.jpg

Display running of USB power, after modification
IMG_20160806_140943.jpg

Please ignore my piss poor soldering job. I need to buy a new iron ASAP!
IMG_20160806_141048.jpg

In the Case:
IMG_20160805_201249.jpg

The resolution is not that great, default console font is not legible.

Do you mind if i ask hiw to run it off a usb port? Is it just a case of soldering to pin 1 and 4 off a male usb connector and then plug in?