My new project - RetroStone

[PierreLo]

Hey guys!
I have been working on a handheld for quite some time now and Ithink the results is rather neat
(Picture enclosed)

I went trough some heavy duty there!
- I made my own SBC with a H3 processor (that can run retrorangepi). I know it's bit off topic as it's not strictly a gameboyzero but I think the results is cool as well
- I designed a casing bit different than original GBZ with new design with edges. It's bit smaller too.

It was difinitly a cool project to make, it took me a lot of time for the SBC design but once it boots it just feel so good

I called it RetroStone and I'm launching it on Kickstarter btw.

Let me know what you think
Pierre

[kite]

Wow very impressive, did you design it yourself? Do you work as an electrical engineer? As that's pretty impressive Looking at that area under the CPU looks like an incredibly complicated nest is it 4 or 6 layers?

Have you tried using the DPI (parallel RGB) interface on the H3 chips? It looks like you're using a composite display IC?

How does the H3 compare to a Pi3? I was thinking one day to make a 'compute module' using the H3 to see how that worked out..

[abrugsch]

I don't think H3 has DPI capability as a SoC... just doesn't have the pins broken out, unlike something like R8...

but at anyrate for making your own SBC BRAVO!

[PierreLo]

Yes I have done the design by my self
Actually I am biology engineer, I started to learn electronic last year when I launched Raspiboy.
It is 4 layers actually!
H3 chips don't have RGB, it's A20 who has this LCD interface. But retrorangepi is not compatible with A20 so I used the H3 with composite chip.
I discussed with Allwinner engineers to check if LCD could be driven by H3 but they said it can't be done. (or very difficult at least).

I think the idea of a compute module with H3 is nice, I considered it already Best would be to do such that it is compatible with RPI3 CM I/O boards.

BTW I just launched the kickstarter if it interest you!
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/58 ... ng-console

[kite]

Neat, makes sense about DPI, not looked into the chips close enough looks very good

[VeteranGamer]

looks like a really nice form factor....
great work....

as its a kickstarter....

why have you got the rear buttons mimicking the front or like a SNES/Famicom controller
the arrangement of the buttons is a little weird for the back (you defienately missed a trick here)
as your designing from scratch the buttons could have been placed/positioned a little more better for the user...

also you have pads that dont have button on the front...
are these the same as the L1,L2 & R1,R2 (are you going to be offering 6 buttons on the front case/shells)

another trick i feel some of these kickstarter projects miss...
is to hide the ports....
none of them come with flaps or covers that discreetly hide the ports when not in use (which is most of the time)
the ports can look off, especially the ethernet


please don't take offense to these comment...
just my ignorant humble opinions as a end user...


great project and i wish you all the success in your kickstarter campaign....


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[moosepr]

by jingo, thats next level stuff!!! amazing

[rodocop]

This is really great! Nice work, is that just a 3D printed shell?

[PierreLo]

Yes it's 3D printed shell, but it's with SLS, not SLA, that's why it looks like this. I got it from sculpteo company.

About the rear buttons, it was because I'm using the ABXY silicon. But lot of people are complaining it looks ugly. So I will try to make an alternate 3D model.
I thought it looked nice ^^'

[VeteranGamer]

About the rear buttons, it was because I'm using the ABXY silicon. But lot of people are complaining it looks ugly.

i personally wouldnt say they look ugly (IMHO)....
but they do look out of place, and more importantly the button layout is nothing thats ever been done for the rear buttons....
(and theres most probably a reason for that.... it doesnt feel natural to play like that)
(as most 4 button silicones layouts have been designed to be used with your thumb, not your fingers)

L1&R1 are normally parallel to each other horizontally, just so that it makes it easier for the user
(rather than having one finger higher than the other)

if your using off the shelf silicones, then there are plenty of different Gameboy version silicones that could be used
(you'll just have to have two of them, rather than one, or have one made specially)



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