I haven't done a full battery test yet, I'll try and do one next week when I can just leave it running for a while and watch for when the Low Voltage LED comes on.Kcj101 wrote:About how long does the battery last?
Cannikin's GBZ
Re: Cannikin's GBZ
Re: Cannikin's GBZ
Kcj101 wrote:And how were you able to scratch off the border so cleanly? Looks great!
So I made a tiny little jig that held the tip of my Xacto knife about 3/16" from the edge. I ran that all around the glass from the back which put a hairline cut in the backing that protects the sticky tape. I peeled that off on the INSIDE of the line, then with the edge of the Xacto knife just started scratching off the paint. I removed the sticky tape first, then scratched the paint. It's tough to get a REAL clean edge...even though the initial cut it super straight and clean, when you start scraping it's hard to get right up to that knife line without going over.kite wrote:Ditto, I had the same idea and have just received the glass screens.. How did you scratch it off? Any tips?
Someone above mentioned that the owner of Nintendo Repair Hut might make some custom glass screens for us with the gray bezel around the edge. If he does, I'll get one of those since it'll be a clean, razor sharp edge.
- Camble
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Re: Cannikin's GBZ
Nice idea with those hooks, especially with the limited space that screen affords. Speaking of which, can the overscan be adjusted or is what you see what you get?
Re: Cannikin's GBZ
Yep, I'm using an overscan of 8 for top and bottom and that lines up all the emulators perfectly for me (top to bottom). There's 1/8" of black on the left and right on my 640x480 screen.Camble wrote:Nice idea with those hooks, especially with the limited space that screen affords. Speaking of which, can the overscan be adjusted or is what you see what you get?
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Re: Cannikin's GBZ
Do you still feel that it's worth it for the jump in resolution? I'm still trying to make my mind up before buying one.Cannikin wrote:Yep, I'm using an overscan of 8 for top and bottom and that lines up all the emulators perfectly for me (top to bottom). There's 1/8" of black on the left and right on my 640x480 screen.
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Re: Cannikin's GBZ
Thanks [mention]Cannikin[/mention]!
I will try that out, since the only space i have left is right there on the top.
How easy is it to reopen the case? Does it bend enough on pressure to easily unhook your mechanism?
Edit: Nevermind, i just read that it does NOT have a 640x480 resolution. Do not buy it if you expect 640x480!
But i can tell you one thing, the 640x480 resolution is so much better than this 320x240 pixelated mess.
I will try that out, since the only space i have left is right there on the top.
How easy is it to reopen the case? Does it bend enough on pressure to easily unhook your mechanism?
If you are unsure about the money, there is a 640x480 Composite display around for 18,50€. But i am not sure if it runs on 5v.Camble wrote:Do you still feel that it's worth it for the jump in resolution? I'm still trying to make my mind up before buying one.
Edit: Nevermind, i just read that it does NOT have a 640x480 resolution. Do not buy it if you expect 640x480!
But i can tell you one thing, the 640x480 resolution is so much better than this 320x240 pixelated mess.
Last edited by Fleder on Mon May 30, 2016 2:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Cannikin's GBZ
Cannikin wrote:
How did you connect up your dc socket to the powerboost, can't quiet see from this picture. I can get mine to charge but only when the Gameboy is turned on. Have I wired mine wrong?
Re: Cannikin's GBZ
grenade44 wrote:Cannikin wrote:
How did you connect up your dc socket to the powerboost, can't quiet see from this picture. I can get mine to charge but only when the Gameboy is turned on. Have I wired mine wrong?
Hei!
You should wire it like this.
Power plug -> Powerboost
And then from Powerboost to the Raspberry Pi through the switch.
That way the current will come every time when a cable is plugged to the powerboost (and charge the batteries), but will activate (turn on) the Pi only when the switch is turned on.
What you did most probably was wire the Power plug to the switch and then to the powerboost. That way if it's off it's off and if it's on it will both power up the Pi and charge the batteries.
I could be wrong, but just my understanding from what You've written. Sorry if I understood it wrong.
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Re: Cannikin's GBZ
I currently have everything connected to the powerboost. Do you not use the power switch pins on the powerboost? Instead do i put the switch between the 5v and gnd pins on the powerboost and raspberry pi?Mad_Duke wrote:grenade44 wrote:Cannikin wrote:
How did you connect up your dc socket to the powerboost, can't quiet see from this picture. I can get mine to charge but only when the Gameboy is turned on. Have I wired mine wrong?
Hei!
You should wire it like this.
Power plug -> Powerboost
And then from Powerboost to the Raspberry Pi through the switch.
That way the current will come every time when a cable is plugged to the powerboost (and charge the batteries), but will activate (turn on) the Pi only when the switch is turned on.
What you did most probably was wire the Power plug to the switch and then to the powerboost. That way if it's off it's off and if it's on it will both power up the Pi and charge the batteries.
I could be wrong, but just my understanding from what You've written. Sorry if I understood it wrong.
- Camble
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Re: Cannikin's GBZ
I did spot that one, Fleder. Looks like an interesting alternative, but I don't mind paying the extra money if the screen is as good as it looks. I did notice you had some trouble with the size of the driver board thoughFleder wrote:If you are unsure about the money, there is a 640x480 Composite display around for 18,50€. But i am not sure if it runs on 5v.Camble wrote:Do you still feel that it's worth it for the jump in resolution? I'm still trying to make my mind up before buying one.
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