Flowuz wrote: ↑Fri Nov 02, 2018 3:53 pm
Thanks,
In the beginning i thought there so much space in the good old brick. But that's not the "case".
The real challenge was to get sound right. Without the interference off the little shizzeling sound from i think the power (or just the bad sound from the Pi).
Now waiting on Power pcb from Helder for the next build. And build a cleaner one with a Pi 3B+.
the sound is always an issue for these builds....
but i feel (and this is my own opinion)....
peoples wire choices (and length) is where a lot of the issues lie
for all my sound wiring I use (Pound shop/Dollar store.... cheap)
and just twist the wires together (hopefully the Grounds providing some shielding)
i've never had issues since using this method (and that on nearly 7 or 8 builds)
everything except Power wires in a build should be just the bare minimum you need....
i see a lot people using silicon or dupont connector wire
(these are over kill IMHO, and just cause space/fitment issues.... especially in small spaces)
for Data like USB, just use a USB cable (strip it and use the wires, they are always super thin and not as rigid as the others)
for controls anything like Kaynar wire is perfect, again super thin and you can position it however you want
(I even use Kaynar with the Safe Shutdown boards)
(still a bit of a rats nest, but manageable)
personally i'm not a huge fan of putting Pi3 into a Game Boy case/shell....
I've done a few (for other people), and the heat issue (it gets hot) has always put me off from building one for myself....
however..
I'm in the process of building a Wii U gamepad (like Banjokazooie)...
and IMHO, thats where the Pi3/Pi3 B+ is best suited...
little larger space to work with
a bigger screen 6.5"
Good luck with the next build....
.
