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New Build - GBZ

Posted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 4:18 pm
by Dawilson123
I have built a GBZ previously with a Kite super AIO and a Pi Zero W, a 4 button version with L and R back buttons.

Photos of my complete Kite build are posted separately below. Note that I've swapped out the battery for a 125054 form factor 4000mAh which fits in the battery compartment. The 'old' slightly thinner, but longer 3000mAh battery will be used in the new build.

I found it fairly easy to complete the Kite build so when a part build (with a Pi Zero) came up on eBay for just over £30, I bought it fancying the challenge.

Photos of what I took on are posted separately below.

From the photos, it looked a bit of a mess, both the case, soldering and internal components. When it arrived it was worse.

As I had spare case, L and R back buttons, power switch, and a lipo battery, I decided to strip back and remove all the components (after reverse engineering and doing a circuit diagram of what the previous buyer had done) to start afresh doing all the mods myself.

I wanted another 4-button and not a 6-button and/or joystick, because in my eyes, it diverges too far from the original DMG design. The front buttons will be all black and the back buttons, blue.

As I was somewhat restricted by what components the previous buyer had and wanted this to be a cheap (ish) build, I salvaged as much as I could.

I also wanted to add L and R back buttons, a headphone Jack and a speaker.

When disassembling, I found that the LCD screen was shot - a resistor had been knocked off the ribbon cable (possibly by me). Had no idea how to repair it (or even if it can be repaired?!)

First port of call was to buy a replacement BW 3.5" reversing monitor. When it arrived, I removed the LCD then modded it for 5v as per the Sudomod wiki.

I also found that the 5v output on the 3.7V battery mini USB to USB A power module wasn't working when measuring the voltage on the output pads. Using a multimeter I found two other points elsewhere on the board that I could use.

I've done all the case mods and most of the wiring.

Everything is wired together using connectors so if a component doesn't work it can be easily swapped out.

I used the Tinkerboy GPIO schedule and their Retropie image, pre-programmed for the controls, audio, etc.

I used a sudomod build for the screen pin outs on the rpi.

I haven't tested the rpi yet, but figure if it's broken it can be replaced for £10 and a bit of extra soldering.

I also simplified the design by getting rid of the separate USB A socket - I'll use the one on the power module and wire the +5v, gnd, d+ and d- socket pins back to the rpi.

I had to mod the volume and ext connector cut outs in the back case to blank off the micro USB socket on the charging breakout board and move the USB A (formerly volume) socket hole across otherwise the pcba covered up the top case screw mounting hole. This should locate above the pcba for the L1 tactile switch. The powerboost will go below it by the new micro USB cut out (formerly the ext. connector hole).

I cut up a 8bitmods back button pcb to get the L2 and R2 buttons (redesigned as my L and R buttons). This meant that there was a gap in between for the battery to fit.

The rpi will go in the cartridge case, which I've also modded including for a cutting a slot in the top for the microsd card socket.

The battery compartment has been cut away to fit the long, but thin lipo battery.

The amp will fit wherever it can. The volume pot will use the contrast slot.

Hope that all makes sense.

This is the to do list:
1. Test board with rpi image. Check which way up LCD screen works - make a note!
2. File down front half of case by constrast and ext connector. Edge needs to be level.
3 Wire up USB, power and data on power module - use 2x 2-way connector tails.
4. Wire back to pi (data only needs to be added).
5. Wire up speaker, headphone jack, pot and amp - use 5-way and 2-way connector tails
6. Label everything
7. Kapton tape
8. Glue L1 and R1 button on to tactile switch
9. Screw L1 and R1 buttons in place FIRST
10. Glue together - LCD using bracket, pi in cartridge shell, power switch (careful of orientation), 2x break out boards
11. Will LCD contrast / brightness breakout board fit in battery compartment? May be bottom of case? Extend wires if needs be. If so fit and glue in place.

Re: New Custom Build

Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 3:29 am
by VeteranGamer
you need to sort out your images....




NB: its always best to go back and view the post... if you can't view the images, it also means no ones else can...
(just add them on as attachments)


.

Re: New Custom Build

Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 5:12 am
by Dawilson123
Sorry about the photos... my completed Kite Super AIO build

Re: New Custom Build

Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 5:14 am
by Dawilson123
GBZ part built as I bought it

Re: New Custom Build

Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 5:16 am
by Dawilson123
Case mods I've done to cut away the battery compartment, for the L and R back buttons and for the USB and micro-USB cut outs

Re: New Custom Build

Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 5:17 am
by Dawilson123
VeteranGamer wrote:
Sun Jul 14, 2019 3:29 am
you need to sort out your images....




NB: its always best to go back and view the post... if you can't view the images, it also means no ones else can...
(just add them on as attachments)


.

Thanks, I think I've sorted it now. Added the photos as attachments rather than embedded

Re: New Custom Build

Posted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 3:45 pm
by Dawilson123
Will post more photos tomorrow - going to do a bit more work on it. I appreciate my posts so far have been lacking in build progress photos.

Also I've bought a new RPi 3A+ (£15 eBay special) which I will transplant into this build once the RPi Zero version is completed as proof of concept (assuming the Zero actually works otherwise I'll be doing it sooner rather than later ;) ) I'll need to cut down the board and remove the USB, headphone Jack and hdmi sockets. Will also need to check the amperage from the power boost to make sure it is in the 2.5-3A ish range.

Re: New Custom Build

Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 9:42 am
by Dawilson123
I got a lot done today.

I tested the Rpi Zero and screen and they both work.

I had previously tested the power supply / battery charging circuitry, so I already know that they work.

I installed the screen in the front case half after a bit of fettling to get the LCD mount to clear the screen control board (the board was very well bonded to the back of the LCD, so didn't want to risk causing damage by removing / moving it) and notching the bottom of the bracket to clear the button control board.

I installed the front buttons and control board.

I simplified the power distribution by cutting out a bit of strip board to produce a gnd and +5v power rails. Everything except for the power switch, battery and battery charging module will be wired back to this using connectors. I'm using heavier gauge wire for all power cables.

I modified the USB A port on the power boost so that its directly wired into the gnd, +ve, d+ and d- (the latter two to the pi and the former to the power distribution board). I've checked previously that this port isn't wired into the board.

I installed the power boost, power switch and battery charging module. I also installed the L and R back buttons.

I glued in the contrast / brightness breakout board into the inside of the battery compartment.

I wired up the headphone Jack with a connector and installed in the case.

I also wired up most of the connections on the amp. Annoyingly I've mislaid the speaker so had to order another. The stereo pot hasn't turned up yet either.

The pi zero is going to live in the cartridge, protruding into the back case half.

I've ordered a Rpi 3A+ which with a bit of dremel persuasion, de-soldering and removing ports will live in the same place. May need to buy a new cartridge case though because the microSD cut out will probably be in the wrong place.

I have also ordered a safe shutdown board and battery monitor from Galaxy Gaming which will require some modification to the existing power circuitry wiring and pi GPIO connections to wire it in.

Re: New Custom Build

Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 9:50 am
by Dawilson123
More photographs...

Re: New Build - GBZ

Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2019 3:53 pm
by Dawilson123
Well, what a frustrating day!

Managed to wire up the audio circuit with the amp, stereo pot and speaker no problems.

Scratching my head with the safe shutdown pcb though and battery monitor pcb.

Ordered both from Galaxy Gaming (I'm in the UK).

https://galaxygaming.co.uk/shop/gameboy ... y-monitor/

The new 2.1A power boost had also arrived from HK too so I wired that in bypassing the old power boost. Just using the USB A port on that now.

I think the power circuit is working although there was no wiring diagram on Galaxy Gaming's website for the safe shutdown pcb and had to do a bit of digging as it was non-branded (there were no identifying marks at all on the pcb).

It appears to be a Polulu pcb knock-off with the sliding switch removed.

https://www.pololu.com/picture/view/0J6541

I used this and modified the below wiring diagram (very useful- thank you to whoever produced it 👍)
batt mon gaboze.jpg
batt mon gaboze.jpg (966.89 KiB) Viewed 7219 times
Any way, wired it all up tested it and it is producing 5.2v and 3.7v where it should be.

The big frustration was that the rpi would power up and using the micro-hdmi port with the TV, booted up correctly. No signal on the GBZ LCD screen though.

Checked for shorts / continuity and nada. Tested the signal and power cabling to the LCD controller and got a voltage for both so that's ok.

Swapped out with a spare LCD controller board from the first screen which broke and still nothing.

I then spotted a minor nick in the ribbon cable so that must be it (with a gentle twist the cable split halfway!). I think it was because the ribbon cable was bent to form a 90 degree angle so that it entered the controller board which put stress on the cable at the bend.

I've ordered a new LCD (minus the controller - I've got two already and one of them is bound to work, fingers-crossed).

Also just realised how tight a fit it is for an rpi 3A+. With so much cabling in there (needs to be slimmed down and better routed / managed) there's not much space for an RPI zero, never mind a 3A+.