New Build - GBZ
Posted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 4:18 pm
I have built a GBZ previously with a Kite super AIO and a Pi Zero W, a 4 button version with L and R back buttons.
Photos of my complete Kite build are posted separately below. Note that I've swapped out the battery for a 125054 form factor 4000mAh which fits in the battery compartment. The 'old' slightly thinner, but longer 3000mAh battery will be used in the new build.
I found it fairly easy to complete the Kite build so when a part build (with a Pi Zero) came up on eBay for just over £30, I bought it fancying the challenge.
Photos of what I took on are posted separately below.
From the photos, it looked a bit of a mess, both the case, soldering and internal components. When it arrived it was worse.
As I had spare case, L and R back buttons, power switch, and a lipo battery, I decided to strip back and remove all the components (after reverse engineering and doing a circuit diagram of what the previous buyer had done) to start afresh doing all the mods myself.
I wanted another 4-button and not a 6-button and/or joystick, because in my eyes, it diverges too far from the original DMG design. The front buttons will be all black and the back buttons, blue.
As I was somewhat restricted by what components the previous buyer had and wanted this to be a cheap (ish) build, I salvaged as much as I could.
I also wanted to add L and R back buttons, a headphone Jack and a speaker.
When disassembling, I found that the LCD screen was shot - a resistor had been knocked off the ribbon cable (possibly by me). Had no idea how to repair it (or even if it can be repaired?!)
First port of call was to buy a replacement BW 3.5" reversing monitor. When it arrived, I removed the LCD then modded it for 5v as per the Sudomod wiki.
I also found that the 5v output on the 3.7V battery mini USB to USB A power module wasn't working when measuring the voltage on the output pads. Using a multimeter I found two other points elsewhere on the board that I could use.
I've done all the case mods and most of the wiring.
Everything is wired together using connectors so if a component doesn't work it can be easily swapped out.
I used the Tinkerboy GPIO schedule and their Retropie image, pre-programmed for the controls, audio, etc.
I used a sudomod build for the screen pin outs on the rpi.
I haven't tested the rpi yet, but figure if it's broken it can be replaced for £10 and a bit of extra soldering.
I also simplified the design by getting rid of the separate USB A socket - I'll use the one on the power module and wire the +5v, gnd, d+ and d- socket pins back to the rpi.
I had to mod the volume and ext connector cut outs in the back case to blank off the micro USB socket on the charging breakout board and move the USB A (formerly volume) socket hole across otherwise the pcba covered up the top case screw mounting hole. This should locate above the pcba for the L1 tactile switch. The powerboost will go below it by the new micro USB cut out (formerly the ext. connector hole).
I cut up a 8bitmods back button pcb to get the L2 and R2 buttons (redesigned as my L and R buttons). This meant that there was a gap in between for the battery to fit.
The rpi will go in the cartridge case, which I've also modded including for a cutting a slot in the top for the microsd card socket.
The battery compartment has been cut away to fit the long, but thin lipo battery.
The amp will fit wherever it can. The volume pot will use the contrast slot.
Hope that all makes sense.
This is the to do list:
1. Test board with rpi image. Check which way up LCD screen works - make a note!
2. File down front half of case by constrast and ext connector. Edge needs to be level.
3 Wire up USB, power and data on power module - use 2x 2-way connector tails.
4. Wire back to pi (data only needs to be added).
5. Wire up speaker, headphone jack, pot and amp - use 5-way and 2-way connector tails
6. Label everything
7. Kapton tape
8. Glue L1 and R1 button on to tactile switch
9. Screw L1 and R1 buttons in place FIRST
10. Glue together - LCD using bracket, pi in cartridge shell, power switch (careful of orientation), 2x break out boards
11. Will LCD contrast / brightness breakout board fit in battery compartment? May be bottom of case? Extend wires if needs be. If so fit and glue in place.
Photos of my complete Kite build are posted separately below. Note that I've swapped out the battery for a 125054 form factor 4000mAh which fits in the battery compartment. The 'old' slightly thinner, but longer 3000mAh battery will be used in the new build.
I found it fairly easy to complete the Kite build so when a part build (with a Pi Zero) came up on eBay for just over £30, I bought it fancying the challenge.
Photos of what I took on are posted separately below.
From the photos, it looked a bit of a mess, both the case, soldering and internal components. When it arrived it was worse.
As I had spare case, L and R back buttons, power switch, and a lipo battery, I decided to strip back and remove all the components (after reverse engineering and doing a circuit diagram of what the previous buyer had done) to start afresh doing all the mods myself.
I wanted another 4-button and not a 6-button and/or joystick, because in my eyes, it diverges too far from the original DMG design. The front buttons will be all black and the back buttons, blue.
As I was somewhat restricted by what components the previous buyer had and wanted this to be a cheap (ish) build, I salvaged as much as I could.
I also wanted to add L and R back buttons, a headphone Jack and a speaker.
When disassembling, I found that the LCD screen was shot - a resistor had been knocked off the ribbon cable (possibly by me). Had no idea how to repair it (or even if it can be repaired?!)
First port of call was to buy a replacement BW 3.5" reversing monitor. When it arrived, I removed the LCD then modded it for 5v as per the Sudomod wiki.
I also found that the 5v output on the 3.7V battery mini USB to USB A power module wasn't working when measuring the voltage on the output pads. Using a multimeter I found two other points elsewhere on the board that I could use.
I've done all the case mods and most of the wiring.
Everything is wired together using connectors so if a component doesn't work it can be easily swapped out.
I used the Tinkerboy GPIO schedule and their Retropie image, pre-programmed for the controls, audio, etc.
I used a sudomod build for the screen pin outs on the rpi.
I haven't tested the rpi yet, but figure if it's broken it can be replaced for £10 and a bit of extra soldering.
I also simplified the design by getting rid of the separate USB A socket - I'll use the one on the power module and wire the +5v, gnd, d+ and d- socket pins back to the rpi.
I had to mod the volume and ext connector cut outs in the back case to blank off the micro USB socket on the charging breakout board and move the USB A (formerly volume) socket hole across otherwise the pcba covered up the top case screw mounting hole. This should locate above the pcba for the L1 tactile switch. The powerboost will go below it by the new micro USB cut out (formerly the ext. connector hole).
I cut up a 8bitmods back button pcb to get the L2 and R2 buttons (redesigned as my L and R buttons). This meant that there was a gap in between for the battery to fit.
The rpi will go in the cartridge case, which I've also modded including for a cutting a slot in the top for the microsd card socket.
The battery compartment has been cut away to fit the long, but thin lipo battery.
The amp will fit wherever it can. The volume pot will use the contrast slot.
Hope that all makes sense.
This is the to do list:
1. Test board with rpi image. Check which way up LCD screen works - make a note!
2. File down front half of case by constrast and ext connector. Edge needs to be level.
3 Wire up USB, power and data on power module - use 2x 2-way connector tails.
4. Wire back to pi (data only needs to be added).
5. Wire up speaker, headphone jack, pot and amp - use 5-way and 2-way connector tails
6. Label everything
7. Kapton tape
8. Glue L1 and R1 button on to tactile switch
9. Screw L1 and R1 buttons in place FIRST
10. Glue together - LCD using bracket, pi in cartridge shell, power switch (careful of orientation), 2x break out boards
11. Will LCD contrast / brightness breakout board fit in battery compartment? May be bottom of case? Extend wires if needs be. If so fit and glue in place.