sudomod

The gameboy screen has parts of it that are not the right color, similar to this, but not quite: https://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=5838

I have tried imaging it again and switching screens to no avail. When plugged into a TV the colors are correct. Any solutions? Thanks.

I am kind of having a similar issue with the screen in my circuit sword kit, although at a lower degree.
The bright pixels seems to "cast" a white shadow to the left. This doesn't happen in all games, it seems to depend on the game's palette.
I thought it could be a bad screen connection, so I unplugged it, cleaned it, put it back carefully and got the exact same issue.
Could that come from the screen itself ?

kite wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 22, 2018 2:09 am

Try the same with the compute module connector too, might help..

Just gave it a try, no luck sadly.
Also had a try at the TESTER mode, the screen looks fine in that mode.

Edit: strangely enough it seems to only be happening on the blue.

leny wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 22, 2018 5:51 am

kite wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 22, 2018 2:09 am

Try the same with the compute module connector too, might help..

Just gave it a try, no luck sadly.
Also had a try at the TESTER mode, the screen looks fine in that mode.

Edit: strangely enough it seems to only be happening on the blue.

Hm, things to try with the screen showing something that highlights it:

1. Pressing the FPC cable at the BASE of the LCD, try and push it 'into' the LCD and generally move it around a bit
2. Putting pressure on the LCD connector, trying to push the pins at the back of it down slightly to see if there is an unsoldered connection here (if possible, get me a close up high quality photo (use bright light) of the pins at the back of the LCD connector)
3. Putting pressure on the back of the CM3 connector, the area nearest the top where the wifi module is (if possible, get me a close up high quality photo (use bright light) of the pins in this area)

The possible outcomes to this are:

A. Identifying that there is perhaps an inconsistently soldered connection --> solder yourself or return for repair
B. Not being able to change the appearance at all --> return for repair
C. LCD is faulty --> I can send out a new LCD

So we'll see what comes of it!

Thanks I'll try that.
As the screen looked OK in TESTER mode I originally glued in Hoolywoo lcd bracket, I need to figure out how to get it out without damage.

leny wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 22, 2018 7:42 am

Thanks I'll try that.
As the screen looked OK in TESTER mode I originally glued in Hoolywoo lcd bracket, I need to figure out how to get it out without damage.

Perhaps skip that bit then, if you hot glued it you might have a chance otherwise perhaps not!

Here are the pics of the connectors.
Stuff that I didn't notice with naked eyes, the first 3 pins on the cm3 don't look very clean, and possibly more importantly on the lcd some pins seems connected, are they supposed to be ?

Hm good spot on the LCD connector. The way I would remove that, is to get a little flux onto those bits of solder, and use a hot soldering iron tip to try and gently pull away (we're talking about those little bits of solder on the TOP of the connector, not where the PCB is).

Could you get me another picture but further to the top of the CM3 module, the LCD pins start from the VERY top edge of the connector and go down to the bottom of the wifi module.. so same picture just move the camera more over the wifi module

Those first 3 pins are power so they're fine to be like that

Thank you for your help and sending me in the right direction.
I tried the iron but couldn't do it precisely enough, I finally used a pin to try to scrap in between.
It ultimately worked and the screen is now perfect !
Thanks again.

Nice work! I have received two customer returns for the same reason and upon photo inspection the bridges are visible! So i'll add something to the known issues page about this and also devise some way to test this before shipping..

With the one customer return, the solder was simply a ball, so it pinged out with a needle.. the other was the same as yours. I suspect that a solder ball gets stuck in there through manufacture (probably part of the cleaning process) and when another component gets re-heated it melts and forms the bridge.

Happy to hear that worked! If it hadn't (or if anyone else tries and doesn't have success) I of course would do this for you in a return. I tried an iron myself and couldn't do it either so my advice wasn't really possible the knife is a good way, but otherwise with a return I would reflow the entire connector and put a new one on, so all is not lost!

Here is a picture of what it looks like close up: