All in One PCB Support Thread

[SumCanadianGuy]

Got it all together. No audio issues which was my main fear after reading this thread. I have 2 issues though. Not sure if my hardware isn't supported by the board or what but neither of my USB ports work. I hadn't planned on using them much, but wouldn't mind wifi for ssh.

The more annoying issue is they none of the controls work in any of the configuration menus. Everything works to play games and in retropie, but the only thing that works in the menus is the D-pad. I can't select anything. Any ideas on that one?

[Helder]

1. If you have a usb SD Card Reader you can connect it to the USB hub but if you're expecting to use external SD Card for storage you will have to read guides on how to do it and also read the roms off of it. The Pi assumes the roms are on the system SD Card but this might be with Retropie but might be different with other Emulator OS.

Ok, did you think I can use something like this? http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/MDE2NzcyOT ... S5159.html
The idea is to remove the card slot and wire the pcb to the Cartridge Slot and the USB Hub.

The Retropie setup for running roms from usb, I found this: https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Se ... -USB-drive

Worth a shot since it's inexpensive but since I or as far as I know anyone else tried this I can't confirm it will work or not.

[Helder]

Got it all together. No audio issues which was my main fear after reading this thread. I have 2 issues though. Not sure if my hardware isn't supported by the board or what but neither of my USB ports work. I hadn't planned on using them much, but wouldn't mind wifi for ssh.

The more annoying issue is they none of the controls work in any of the configuration menus. Everything works to play games and in retropie, but the only thing that works in the menus is the D-pad. I can't select anything. Any ideas on that one?

Weren't you the one with Mame controller issues? maybe that affected something in the retropie config or it needs to be configured. No one has really done Mame and regular old school emulators so it might be the whole MAME configuration. You could always reprogram the board to act as a keyboard (look in the other hardware subforum) using Arduino IDE or the USBasp.


EDIT: I didn't completely read your whole post and to make the controls work in the configuration menus aka the Blue DOS like menus you need a keyboard and I know of no one doing it with the controller unless it having it setup as a keyboard to begin with.

[SumCanadianGuy]

Got it going. Found an old DELL multimedia keyboard in my garage that worked perfectly. Is there someplace I should document the model for others or do I just rejoice in my success lol.

[Helder]

Got it going. Found an old DELL multimedia keyboard in my garage that worked perfectly. Is there someplace I should document the model for others or do I just rejoice in my success lol.

Tell me the model and I'll post it in the first post.

[xfcrowman]

@Helder I just received my USBasp programmer and after following your instructions it was easy to reprogram the controller.

I tried the Keyboard and No Analog versions, and I used the newer fixed versions that you posted in the USBasp tutorial. Unfortunately this didn't solve my problem - I can't map the A or B buttons correctly as they both register as the same button. I will map one of them in EmulationStation, but when I try to map the second one I get the "Already Taken" message

I am wondering if it is related to this U4 chip on the controller - there's a small amount of solder on it (see photo). It was like this when I received it - could this solder be bridging the A and B buttons?

IMG_2022.JPG (118.82 KiB) Viewed 10004 times

I still have the USB hub problems, but I'm less worried about this because my Raspberry Pi Zero W has been shipped.


Thanks again!

[Helder]

@Helder I just received my USBasp programmer and after following your instructions it was easy to reprogram the controller.

I tried the Keyboard and No Analog versions, and I used the newer fixed versions that you posted in the USBasp tutorial. Unfortunately this didn't solve my problem - I can't map the A or B buttons correctly as they both register as the same button. I will map one of them in EmulationStation, but when I try to map the second one I get the "Already Taken" message

I am wondering if it is related to this U4 chip on the controller - there's a small amount of solder on it (see photo). It was like this when I received it - could this solder be bridging the A and B buttons?

IMG_2022.JPG

I still have the USB hub problems, but I'm less worried about this because my Raspberry Pi Zero W has been shipped.


Thanks again!

It's supposed to have that solder blob. As for the controls it might need a reflow on the Atmega32u4 legs or could be the silicone pads causing the issue.

[xfcrowman]

@Helder I just received my USBasp programmer and after following your instructions it was easy to reprogram the controller.

I tried the Keyboard and No Analog versions, and I used the newer fixed versions that you posted in the USBasp tutorial. Unfortunately this didn't solve my problem - I can't map the A or B buttons correctly as they both register as the same button. I will map one of them in EmulationStation, but when I try to map the second one I get the "Already Taken" message

I am wondering if it is related to this U4 chip on the controller - there's a small amount of solder on it (see photo). It was like this when I received it - could this solder be bridging the A and B buttons?

IMG_2022.JPG

I still have the USB hub problems, but I'm less worried about this because my Raspberry Pi Zero W has been shipped.


Thanks again!

It's supposed to have that solder blob. As for the controls it might need a reflow on the Atmega32u4 legs or could be the silicone pads causing the issue.

@Helder - OK, I tested the silicone pads on my first GBZ and they are working fine, so that means it must be something about the Atmega chip. I have never done a reflow before so I am going to have to read up before trying this.

Can you tell me which connections on the chip are used for the A and B buttons? Ideally I want to do as little with the chip as possible, as I don't want to risk damaging it.

[Helder]

OK, I tested the silicone pads on my first GBZ and they are working fine, so that means it must be something about the Atmega chip. I have never done a reflow before so I am going to have to read up before trying this.

Can you tell me which connections on the chip are used for the A and B buttons? Ideally I want to do as little with the chip as possible, as I don't want to risk damaging it.

I'll post a diagram tomorrow when I'm home.

Edit: Here it is, simply heat the leg that is color coded to the button with a cleaned tip soldering iron and apply a little extra solder (thing being here LITTLE bit of solder).

[Boubobo]

Sorry for posting on the wrong topic, I hope i'm at the right place now :
I have a near silent audio problem ( http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 290#p27085 )

It's actually a documented problem with the first 2.2A boards and there is a simple fix of adding or replacing the 2 resistors to the right of the headphone socket with 75ohm resistors. Go have a look at my support thread 6 pages back from the last page for more information on it.

I didn't have 75ohm resistor and went for 100ohm ones. I then replaced R15 and R16 10Ohm by my 100ohm :

It didn't change audio's volume.
I then read on this topic that you have to meddle with R17 and R18, I changed them for 100ohm :

It didn't change audio's volume.
I clearly did something wrong or didn't understood something, can anybody please point me to the right direction ?
(I still have the 10ohm resistors if needed)