sudomod

Helder wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 26, 2017 4:38 pm

Jmags1700 wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 26, 2017 2:18 pm

Yeah it's just the angle there is a visible gap but since you said it a checked with the meter no bridge

First and foremost is to hook it up to a PC as mentioned above and see if there is an Arduino controller in the Devices screen where normally printers are.

Second I notice you have burned a pad or 2 which I circled in RED which I suspect (you will have to check) that you might have burned the annular ring circled in BLUE. The thing with this ring is that the trace to the USB gub is on the back end of the PCB and if that ring is burned off on that side there is effectively no USB connection being made. I've seen another user with a similar situation (if this is your situation) that the back annular ring was missing, so check that also.





If the second paragraph is your issue then you can solder a wire to whichever ring is burned to the following traces:

Helder wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 26, 2017 5:29 pm

When you plug it into a PC it should detect new hardware, if it gives an error try swapping the green and white wires. If no devices show up (it should have detected atleast the usb hub) then we can discuss a fix or replacement over a PM. If it does detect both the usb hub and controller then all should be fine.

Can you take a photo of the other side of the board where the usb solder holes are?

Helder wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:13 am

Controller Issues can be fixed with a reprogram or better membranes (usually original ones), the first USBasp you linked to looks fine but be sure it's jumper is set to 5v.

The sound having static is because of lack of shielding, you need to keep any power wires and data wires away from the amp and volume wheel wires. Try wrapping an extra wire around the Volume Wheel wires and PWM wires then solder each end of this wire to a GND, one on the Pi the other on the AIO to help clean the sound up.

drafterITA wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 28, 2017 11:01 am

Helder wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:13 am

Controller Issues can be fixed with a reprogram or better membranes (usually original ones), the first USBasp you linked to looks fine but be sure it's jumper is set to 5v.

The sound having static is because of lack of shielding, you need to keep any power wires and data wires away from the amp and volume wheel wires. Try wrapping an extra wire around the Volume Wheel wires and PWM wires then solder each end of this wire to a GND, one on the Pi the other on the AIO to help clean the sound up.

reprogramming the board didn't improve the situation.. I got everything set up as the guide says, although I have only Windows 10.. even tho I used the Zadig method to install the driver I still get the "warning cannot set sck period" message, all the rest of the log looks fine..
Any other suggestion? the last resort is to order original membranes?
the ones I have look pretty good to me and I also cleaned everything again.. contacts and membranes..

Thanks

Helder wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 28, 2017 1:30 pm

Windows 10 is something I don't have experience using to program the boards and therefore don't really know if it got programmed properly or not. If you have access to a Windows 7 pc to reprogram the board try that as that is what I use.

Do you have controls at all?

kite wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 28, 2017 2:42 pm

RE: Diagonal not working:

I hit the same issue on mine, the issue is that the PLASTIC DPAD is not a very good clone.. if you cut two disks of paper and put it between the DPAD PLASTIC and the MEMBRANE it will fix it! The issue is that the 'nub' on the plastic DPAD is too tall.. so by putting something in between it makes the plastic closer to the membrane!

Alternatively try a different membrane + plastic DPAD.. but with some shims (paper) you can solve it (ideally use double sided tape to keep it in place on the DPAD)