CSL Wont turn on? [SOLVED]

[GrainBoy]

Hey guys. I feel really bad for hitting Kite up so often with issues, especially now that hes probably swamped with a new pre-order. So I'm gonna try to get some help here instead.

So I ran through Kites set up guide, everything checked out fine. Powered on, charges, LCD working, etc.

However, after assembling my gameboy it will not turn on. It does power on if I hit the power test button that's soldered onto the board. So this leads me to believe that something is either wrong with the add on board or the power switch board. All were functioning properly before I assembled the gameboy but I cannot spot any noticeable issues with anything. Nothing looks bad on the jst female for the USB board, or the power switch board..

The only thing I can spot is that the ribbon cable connecting the two seems to be crimped a bit from installing. This doesnt seem like it should be an issue but just to test it I pulled it out slight to get a connection on the area of the pins that weren't crimped but still nothing. I taped off anything that would cause a short prior to assembly, so I'm at a loss...anyone have any ideas I can test out to resolve the issue? I've been super discouraged trying to complete these builds. Something went wrong with my CS and now I can't figure out this CSL

Thanks in advance for any help possible.

[GrainBoy]

*UPDATE*

Confirmed that the ribbon cable is working properly by connecting controller, holding power test button and booting into ES. Controller works so there is obviously a fine connection with ribbon cable.

Also, confirmed that there is no issue with the SW-CONN port on the usb/volume wheel board by configuring L1 button. It registers when pressed.

This narrows it down to the power switch. But again, idk what could have happened to it?

[GrainBoy]

*UPDATE #2*

So upon further investigation I may have jumped the gun on ruling out the SW-CONN port on the USB board. I tested L1, which worked, however I noticed this weird "burn" looking bit on the port. Which is on the side of the port designated to Mode, Power, & Ground. I'm thinking I might have soldered the mode button on backwards which shorted this out but I'm not sure.

I soldered it on the only way it would fit correctly in the case and there is no clear indication of positive and ground on the mode button itself.

I removed the mode button to see if it was the cause but still no power from the switch. So this is my only lead. Any thoughts? Would the entire SW-CONN port be shorted if this was the case? Because like I said, L1 works so not sure if the only pads damaged could be MODE, PWR, & GND? Is that possible or would the entire port be affected?

[kite]

With a multimeter in resistance mode (or the mode where it beeps (continuity)): On the power switch itself, put one probe in the middle set of pins (either) and the other probe on the side that says "ON" (either of the two pins). With the switch OFF, you should get infinite resistance/no beep, with it ON you should get short/beep. Could you confirm this?

[GrainBoy]

*Fixed*

Turns out I had no connection on the pad nearest that weird burn mark shown above. Reflowed some solder and now have a connection.

Thanks for the quick reply Kite. Always much appreciated.