Interesting, I have access to a PCB CNC mill, can do 5.5 × 4.5 × 1.6 in (140 × 114 × 40.6 mm). I'd be interested in trying to knock something like this out in acrylic.gb9k wrote:
Thank you! Can't wait to get in wood and metal.
As for the stl, sorry but I can't put you through the headache to prep it. It's really flimsy; the design is meant for stabilized wood plus aluminum cut on a CNC and the ABS print makes it painfully obvious. With a few spots in the model calling for 0.3mm (0.012") clearances, 0.8mm (0.031") thickness, and 3d printing dimensional accuracy being what it is, the flex shaft got a lot of work to make parts fit.
gb9k's slightly different take
Re: gb9k's slightly different take
Re: gb9k's slightly different take
This is amazing, can't wait to see it finished. What do the L and R buttons look like?
- DeltaShadow
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Re: gb9k's slightly different take
Just a thought if you don't like the "clicky" feel on you game-boy you can use these https://www.adafruit.com/products/3101 since your build uses all tactile switches.
Re: gb9k's slightly different take
Are you going to mill a case in aluminum and veneer?
Pi3 in DMG-01 project https://goo.gl/Ax84Bf
(no pictures thus far, ordered most parts, waiting for them)
(no pictures thus far, ordered most parts, waiting for them)
- SumCanadianGuy
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Re: gb9k's slightly different take
I was thinking about doing my own 3D printed case, I LOVE how slim this is, but totally understand you on the strength and tolerances of the abs like that. Maybe for my second build I'll do something like this.
Re: gb9k's slightly different take
Might want to hold off since it's still really rough and I've only got a few hours a week to work on this project. Example:chaosratt wrote: Interesting, I have access to a PCB CNC mill, can do 5.5 × 4.5 × 1.6 in (140 × 114 × 40.6 mm). I'd be interested in trying to knock something like this out in acrylic.
[spoiler="The fit is pretty off."]
[spoiler="At least the symbols are legible."]
[spoiler="That should not be sticking out so much."]
[spoiler="Fun fact. These buttons were once a cutting board."]
[spoiler="So close, yet so far."]
[spoiler="As requested."]Lady Pecs wrote:This is amazing, can't wait to see it finished. What do the L and R buttons look like?
I might have to look into this for the d-pad. Definitely want to squeeze in omron D2FC-F-7N for the ABXY.DeltaShadow wrote:Just a thought if you don't like the "clicky" feel on you game-boy you can use these https://www.adafruit.com/products/3101 since your build uses all tactile switches.
Stabilized wood for the front/rear plates and aluminum for the sides. For these first few prototypes I'm just using old oak off cuts. No sense in putting in the effort to stabilize if we know things aren't dialed in, yet.Ziggurat wrote:Are you going to mill a case in aluminum and veneer?
One of my goals with this project is to release a 3d-printable version. I really really want crazy colors on this. Don't get me wrong, stabilized wood is awesome, but how cool would this be with some black ebony wood, 3d printed translucent turquoise bumpers with white LEDs behind them, and brass buttons! MmmmmmmSumCanadianGuy wrote:I was thinking about doing my own 3D printed case, I LOVE how slim this is, but totally understand you on the strength and tolerances of the abs like that. Maybe for my second build I'll do something like this.
- zeppike
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Re: gb9k's slightly different take
Hey there,
I love your build. Could you upload some photos about the inside of the housing? I think you should consider using nds lite buttons instead of these tactile switches. You can get a whole junk nds for 10$ on ebay. The dpad is also awsome on that machine.
I love your build. Could you upload some photos about the inside of the housing? I think you should consider using nds lite buttons instead of these tactile switches. You can get a whole junk nds for 10$ on ebay. The dpad is also awsome on that machine.
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