Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Show off your completed Game Boy Zero, or post your build logs here!
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PF21
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Re: Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Post by PF21 » Fri Jan 05, 2018 11:54 am

Extremely impressive. I've certainly learned a few new tricks from your build. Thank you for sharing such a complete build thread.

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VeteranGamer
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Re: Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Post by VeteranGamer » Sat Jan 06, 2018 3:32 am

moosethemucha wrote:
Fri Jan 05, 2018 6:13 am
Great build and thank you for the inspiration with the ADS1115 + HoolyHoo battery monitor, I've just ordered one. Are you going to be adding the steps of this to this guide ?

i still haven't got around to this yet (so its still academic for me)


heres the wiring that i was going to do (may need to be confirmed by HoolyHoo) but i'm 99% its what it should be...

Image


if you use the ADS1015 as the script is setup for, just following this diagram and installing the script should be enough....

https://github.com/HoolyHoo/Mintybatterymonitor


if you use a ADS1115 (which in theory should give you a slightly better indicator)
then you'll just need to edit the script to this (once you've installed it, following HoolyHoo installing instructions).....

https://github.com/HoolyHoo/Mintybatter ... Monitor.py

Image


also even though the function button is BCM7, if you've wired/connected your GPIO in a way that it already uses this (BCM7) then you should also be able to edit the script so that the aren't any conflicts.....


with all this being said, i still haven't got around to test it out, and if your in any doubt double checking with HoolyHoo wouldnt be a bad idea....


.

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Re: Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Post by HoolyHoo » Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:29 am

I’m on a mobile so was only able to take a quick glance at your post Veteran. I did notice the wiring diagram is missing the battery plus to A0 on the adc. A dpdt switch also helps to cut the battery from constant power to the adc. I can clarify later when not on a mobile.

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Re: Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Post by VeteranGamer » Sat Jan 06, 2018 10:56 am

HoolyHoo wrote:
Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:29 am
I’m on a mobile so was only able to take a quick glance at your post Veteran. I did notice the wiring diagram is missing the battery plus to A0 on the adc. A dpdt switch also helps to cut the battery from constant power to the adc. I can clarify later when not on a mobile.
really appreciate the help here....
i had a feeling it might be missing something (99%).......
but this is really out of my comfort zone....

if it needs a connection to the Battery +

will this do it.....

Image

if it does.....
could you put a jumper from VDD to A0 as they are both coming from Battery + (or it doesn't work like that, and has to be separate)


as for the switch.....

if wiring up with one of Cambles Safe Shutdown boards/switch can you get away without the need of a switch

Image


also...
how important is a switch (in addition to the power switch), if power is completely cut of from the rest of the components (namely the Pi Zero)......
and does it or will it have a power draw of any consequence if no switch is added and the Pi Zero is completely shut of and not sending or receiving anything....


thanks for any feedback.....



.

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Re: Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Post by HoolyHoo » Sat Jan 06, 2018 5:40 pm

VeteranGamer wrote:
Sat Jan 06, 2018 10:56 am
HoolyHoo wrote:
Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:29 am
I’m on a mobile so was only able to take a quick glance at your post Veteran. I did notice the wiring diagram is missing the battery plus to A0 on the adc. A dpdt switch also helps to cut the battery from constant power to the adc. I can clarify later when not on a mobile.
really appreciate the help here....
i had a feeling it might be missing something (99%).......
but this is really out of my comfort zone....

if it needs a connection to the Battery +

will this do it.....

Image

if it does.....
could you put a jumper from VDD to A0 as they are both coming from Battery + (or it doesn't work like that, and has to be separate)


as for the switch.....

if wiring up with one of Cambles Safe Shutdown boards/switch can you get away without the need of a switch

Image


also...
how important is a switch (in addition to the power switch), if power is completely cut of from the rest of the components (namely the Pi Zero)......
and does it or will it have a power draw of any consequence if no switch is added and the Pi Zero is completely shut of and not sending or receiving anything....


thanks for any feedback.....



.
The adc vdd can be from 2v up to 5.5v. We used the battery voltage on the mintypi because we ran the pi straight from battery. In your setup, I would run 5v to the adc vdd. It’s more stable with it anyhow. Something like this.
787F4492-7970-4BF5-8325-F7507E02A388.jpeg
787F4492-7970-4BF5-8325-F7507E02A388.jpeg (350.68 KiB) Viewed 9573 times
Since Cambles shutdown kills the power to the pi and vdd in the new schematic you can bypass the switch although I might add a current limiting 10k resistor on the A0 input.

As far as the software, if it helps you, I can add a fork to the changes you will need. Let me know how it goes. ;)

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Re: Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Post by VeteranGamer » Sun Jan 07, 2018 12:50 am

HoolyHoo wrote:
Sat Jan 06, 2018 5:40 pm


The adc vdd can be from 2v up to 5.5v. We used the battery voltage on the mintypi because we ran the pi straight from battery. In your setup, I would run 5v to the adc vdd. It’s more stable with it anyhow. Something like this.
787F4492-7970-4BF5-8325-F7507E02A388.jpeg
Since Cambles shutdown kills the power to the pi and vdd in the new schematic you can bypass the switch although I might add a current limiting 10k resistor on the A0 input.

As far as the software, if it helps you, I can add a fork to the changes you will need. Let me know how it goes. ;)

as per you advice (and diagram), i've redone the diagrams (thank you)

Image

Image


any help with the software will be greatly appreciated.....

but as a secondary....
i think anyone thats going to be using a SPI screen (or maybe even not), could also use the current mintyPi V4 .img as a base....
providing that they make sure the same GPIO are used
(they could also have slightly different controls, but that would need to be adjusted in retrogame)

it will save them from installing the battery monitor script. setting up the SPI screen and installing Retrogame
providing they add the function button, they should be able to have the use of most of the functions....
maybe with the exception of one or two (brightness controls being one of those)

thank you, and i may trouble you again if i run into any issue....


.

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Re: Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Post by rodocop » Sun Jan 07, 2018 9:24 am

Yep. I've just used the minty pi v4 image on my last gbz (editing gpios after the fact is easy). And that's what I plan to do with my current one once my ads1015 gets here. I will also use a dpdt switch for 5v and strait battery power though. So the switch will cut both.

Thanks for the diagrams too!

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Re: Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Post by erik_gee » Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:41 am

For those who are powering their ADC directly from battery and don't have a safe shutdown, consider using a 6pin dpdt switch. It allows you to switch on in off 2 separate items. So you can use it for your main 5v VDD and attach your battery for ADC on the second pole, so you aren't continuously powering your ADC. You'll be able to use your main power switch for both and not have to find a spot for a second switch
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Re: Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Post by Codemaster123 » Mon Jan 08, 2018 2:33 pm

Anyone do this yet

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Re: Veteran's 3rd "THE ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILD"

Post by joeygbsn » Tue Jan 09, 2018 8:06 pm

Hey one thing i realized is that on the ads1115 boards they have pull-up resistors on the sda and scl lines so if you power the module from 5v these lines will have the pi's pull-ups to 3v3 and also the modules to 5v. Not sure how this might affect things but might be a good idea to cut those traces on the module or desolder the resistors. What complicates this a bit more is that a logic high for the ads1115 is stated as .7*Vdd in the datasheet which would be 3.5v at Vdd=5v which is higher than the 3.3v logic on the pi. I have gotten away with it so far on my setup but it is out of spec so there's no guarantees.

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