All in One PCB Support Thread

[Helder]

I did as you said and it shows up as an empty 4-port usb hub. It doesn't ever try to install drivers for the aio, but it did automatically install drivers for the xbox controller

It's 1 of 2 things since the USB Hub is working, it could be bad resistors from the Atmega chip or a reflow on the pins of the usbhub chip are needed that connect to the Atmega chip.

Use this image below for reference to what to do, pins 4 and 5 you try to reflow with a clean soldering iron tip which I colored green and blue.
The resistors (circled in red) use a multimeter to get their values by probing both ends of the same resistor, values should be around 22ohms give or take 1 or 2 ohms. Then test and let me know.

After continuing to troubleshoot I eventually got this working. The best I can figure is that I may have shorted PP22 and PP23.

All controls seem fine in ES but my controls are completely borked in setup-menu areas (e.g. LEFT dpad seems to be registering as A/confirm). This makes it tough to do any configuration. Is this a known problem with a workaround? I had to put the sd in another pi to get the wifi configured...

Reflash the image on the SD card and do a clean install and redo all the controls, be sure the Button Membranes are good ones as mentioned in the previous page the membrane can cause buttons to be unresponsive.

I have a v2.1 blue board. I have sound but it is very low. I don't have a usb hub yet so I can't go in and adjust the sound in the retropie menu. Any other way to increase the sound? Volume pot all the way up. Thanks

This has nothing to do with the AIO and more likely you not being able to use a keyboard on the Pi so I suggest getting one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-Male-F ... B0027YYMU6

This way you can use a keyboard to configure Audio and everything else you need.

[Brandonmel]

Help, my solder pad actually fell off of the board how can I fix or use alternative rout

[pomme]

After continuing to troubleshoot I eventually got this working. The best I can figure is that I may have shorted PP22 and PP23.

All controls seem fine in ES but my controls are completely borked in setup-menu areas (e.g. LEFT dpad seems to be registering as A/confirm). This makes it tough to do any configuration. Is this a known problem with a workaround? I had to put the sd in another pi to get the wifi configured...

Reflash the image on the SD card and do a clean install and redo all the controls, be sure the Button Membranes are good ones as mentioned in the previous page the membrane can cause buttons to be unresponsive.

Thank you for the suggestion. I get the same results after re-flashing the SD card. Actually, I can achieve slightly different results by assigning different buttons to A/B/X/Y at initial ES configuration. Weird huh? All membranes are seated properly and are of the old-school, high-quality variety.

It's kind of frustrating. All I need to do is get into the wifi settings so I can SSH/FTP in for the rest of the setup... but from what I can tell, I have to de-solder D-/D+ before the pi will recognize my USB keyboard (Logitech wireless K400). There's no way to use a keyboard and the AIO controller board at the same time, is this correct?

It seems like once I start making progress I start getting intermittent reboots. (pi zero w). I thought I saw someone else reporting that, but I can't find the comment anymore. Honestly, I think if I could get it to stop rebooting I could eventually get the setup tweaked and never have to go into it again. Controls work fine once I'm in a game. Anyone got any advice?

[mrjfutz]

I did as you said and it shows up as an empty 4-port usb hub. It doesn't ever try to install drivers for the aio, but it did automatically install drivers for the xbox controller

It's 1 of 2 things since the USB Hub is working, it could be bad resistors from the Atmega chip or a reflow on the pins of the usbhub chip are needed that connect to the Atmega chip.

Use this image below for reference to what to do, pins 4 and 5 you try to reflow with a clean soldering iron tip which I colored green and blue.
The resistors (circled in red) use a multimeter to get their values by probing both ends of the same resistor, values should be around 22ohms give or take 1 or 2 ohms. Then test and let me know.

Ok, so I check the resistors and they are both right at 22 (22.3 and 22.5). I'm not sure I understand how to reflow the pins—however, I checked for continuity between the pins and the resistors and it looks like those connections are solid (R6 to pin 4 and R7 to pin 5). I also checked resistance from the pin to the far side of the respective resistor, and it still come in at 22 ohms. I was careful to check high on the pins so I wasn't just getting continuity from the pads.

I also checked the continuity from the resistors to the pins on the Atmega Chip, which also looks correct.

Are there any other connections that I can check for problems?

[pomme]

It seems like once I start making progress I start getting intermittent reboots. (pi zero w). I thought I saw someone else reporting that, but I can't find the comment anymore. Honestly, I think if I could get it to stop rebooting I could eventually get the setup tweaked and never have to go into it again. Controls work fine once I'm in a game. Anyone got any advice?

The more I study this the more I think my crashes/reboots might be caused by a power dip occurring once wireless is activated.

[Helder]

Help, my solder pad actually fell off of the board how can I fix or use alternative rout

First post I have an image with alternate points, use better equipment since you burned the pad off from a high temp iron.

The more I study this the more I think my crashes/reboots might be caused by a power dip occurring once wireless is activated.

What are you using as a power supply? and are you using a proper Pi Zero W image of the OS?

Ok, so I check the resistors and they are both right at 22 (22.3 and 22.5). I'm not sure I understand how to reflow the pins—however, I checked for continuity between the pins and the resistors and it looks like those connections are solid (R6 to pin 4 and R7 to pin 5). I also checked resistance from the pin to the far side of the respective resistor, and it still come in at 22 ohms. I was careful to check high on the pins so I wasn't just getting continuity from the pads.

I also checked the continuity from the resistors to the pins on the Atmega Chip, which also looks correct.

Are there any other connections that I can check for problems?

Honestly those should be it, I've had a few boards like this that I hand built where everything checked out with continuity and reflows and one of the chips wouldn't recognize no matter what so it might be something else causing a short on the Atmega chip. Just ship it back to me and I'll replace the board with another one as long as it's not physically damaged.

[coopman]

I'm having intermittent issues with my pi 3 detecting the board. When I first wired it up, it worked fine for about 5 min. Then I lost it and couldn't get it back. I wired in a usb port and plugged it into my pc and it detected the arduino just fine. Reattached it to my pi and it started working again for a few minutes, but on the next reboot of the system I lost it again and haven't been able to get it reconnected. Any ideas on what to check for here?

[Brandonmel]

Help, my solder pad actually fell off of the board how can I fix or use alternative rout

First post I have an image with alternate points, use better equipment since you burned the pad off from a high temp


Helder so I have to do solder it to the resister and it should work ? Dude thanks so much!! For responding

[coopman]

I'm having intermittent issues with my pi 3 detecting the board. When I first wired it up, it worked fine for about 5 min. Then I lost it and couldn't get it back. I wired in a usb port and plugged it into my pc and it detected the arduino just fine. Reattached it to my pi and it started working again for a few minutes, but on the next reboot of the system I lost it again and haven't been able to get it reconnected. Any ideas on what to check for here?

I'll let you know what I've tried. I wired up a usb port to the input and my computer recognized it as an Arduino Leonardo Game controller which seemed promising. I checked continuity on the resistors you mentioned to someone else having issues and those checked out fine as well.

[Brandonmel]

another question, is there anyway to use the aio board outside retopi perhaps for kodi or as a curser or pixle ?